Bucolic Bliss
Amid Wine & Windmills
Tucked away in
Satara district of Maharashtra, Phaltan is a hidden gem where you can get into
the rural rhythm and gorge on authentic local cuisine
As city dwellers, we often yearn to run away from the
chaos that’s somehow become a part of our day-to-day lives. We are always on
the lookout for places that offer serenity and opportunities to connect with
our roots. And why not? The rural setting exposes us to many marvellous things
— pristine nature, fresh air, the simple ways of small-town life, the chance to
pick fruits and vegetables straight from farms and invigorating vast open
spaces. Indeed, there’s nothing quite like the Indian countryside. If you’re
looking at an unconventional break this monsoon season, look no further than
Phaltan, a little town in the land of Marathas. Located in Satara district of
southwest Maharashtra, Phaltan and the surrounding region is packed with ample
natural beauty, historical sights, temples and more. Famous for its tall
sugarcane fields and pomegranate orchards, this little-explored town is a fresh
slice of bucolic bliss.
We arrive in Phaltan after a comfortable fivehour
drive from Mumbai, thanks to the broad, well-maintained roads to this heaven.
The magic of the changing landscape and cloudy skies seduces us in a unique
way. We set up base at the Jakson Inns, India’s first LEED (Leadership in
Energy and Environmental Design) Green platinum-rated hotel that actively
promotes rural tourism, thus offering a sustainable livelihood to local
communities.
If you’ve imagined yourself engaging in simple
farming activities like milking of cows, this is where you can do it all. Go on
a tractor ride, ride a bullock cart, watch sugarcane turn into sugar crystals,
sample local cuisine or even try horse riding. For those who prefer building a
deeper connecting with a destination, Phaltan will touch your soul. Moreover,
it is close to the Fratelli winery (73 km) and Four Season Vineyards (63 km).
Phaltan was once a princely state of British India
ruled by the Nimbalkars, decedents of Naik Nimbaji Nimbalkar. We begin our trip
with an afternoon at the architectural marvel called Rajwada Palace or Mudhoji
Manmohan Rajwada. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj’s first wife Sai Bai was from
Phaltan. For a cultural history buff, it’s a sheer delight to witness the
grandeur of her stately home, which is a 30-minute drive from Jakson Inns.
While its construction began in 1861, it was completed only in 1875. The
spacious halls and chowks (courtyards) remind us of the rich history of the
Maratha empire. Well-preserved ornate ceilings, columns and arches with
intricate woodwork, long corridors and massive windows and balconies leave us
amazed. Portraits framed in gold, velvet upholsteries, exquisite chandeliers
and the use of a rich colour palette throughout the palace add to its opulence.
With all the rooms in the palace opening out onto a central courtyard, there’s
enough air circulation, a perfect example of how architectural expertise can
help deal with climate change. The descendants don’t stay here anymore. The
adjoining Ram Mandir is also a must-visit. The once Maratha princely state of
Phaltan also has a lot of religious significance. According to mythology, Ram,
Laxman and Sita halted in Phaltan during their exile.
One of the most romantic things to do in Phaltan is
to sip a glass of wine, while taking in the sunset at the nearby Pusegaon
windmill farm. There are more than 200 windmills in this area, producing enough
electricity for the whole of Phaltan. About an hour’s drive from Jakson Inns is
a dreamy hill-top location with huge, starkwhite windmills stretching as far as
the eyes can see. The drive to this place is also blissful — landscapes with oak
and coconut trees and hills with small herds of lamb. Jakson Inns arranges a
fantastic picnic basket with everything from wine and sandwiches to fruits,
juices, cookies and kathi rolls for a private, relaxing time with loved ones.
Take it all in amid the swish sound of the rotating blades and cloudy skies.
Maharashtrian cuisine has always been known for its
strong flavours that vary from region to region. In ancient times, meals in
affluent families would often begin at mid-day and end only at sunset. When
staying at Jakson Inns, we savour the traditional thali, which is an excellent
mix of extremely mild and very spicy dishes. It can be called a gastronomical
experience for good reason.
While the table is set with fragrant rose petals, we
are asked to put on a traditional avatar. All women must adorn their hair with
a floral veni (typical Maharashtrian gajra) and men must sport a pink safa
(turban). The meal consists of more than 25 authentic delicacies along with
solkadhi (a drink made out of kokam and coconut milk) to aid digestion. Then
there are kothimbir vadi (fried snack made from gram flour, coriander leaves
and spices), koshimbir (tomato, onion raita), thaalipeeth (multi-grain
pancakes), bharleli vaangi (stuffed brinjal cooked in peanut curry and masala),
pithla (gram flour curry), matki (a dish made with sprouted moth beans, boiled
potato and spices), aamti (dal with Goda masala), pandhara rassa (mutton in
white-coloured gravy), tambada rassa (Kolhapuri-style spicy chicken) and more.
Phaltan is truly a place to pamper your five senses.
shikha.shah@timesgroup.com
ETM23SEP18
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