Much Ado About Mykonos
The Greek isle, with its
idyllic beaches and high-end brands, has repurposed itself as one of Europe's
elegant wining and dining playgrounds
We land in Chora, Mykonos'
capital city, on a bright morning. The Greek isle's harbour is generating
enough kinetic energy to power a rocket. Gargantuan cruise ships and ferries
are disgorging vacation ers and day trippers on the port; taxis and other
vehicular contraptions are queuing up to ferry passengers while placard bearing
hotel agents are angling for potential clients.
“Madam, hotel? Very good
hotel. See,“ an agent with a thick accent whipped out a photo album to parade
his wares before us. We sidled into a cab to escape the on slaught of his
marketing spiel. Besides, our private villa for a four-day stay had already
been booked.
Despite its commercial
vibe, Mykonos' allure is hard to resist. From blue skies to vibrant fishing
boats peppering its shores, blinding-white stucco architecture, bursting
bougainvilleas, white washed cube houses tumbling down to azure bays, and
white-sand beaches lapped by crystalline turquoise water, the Cycladic island
makes you feel as if you've walked into an Impressionist painting.
Add lore and myth to this
enchanting mix and it's a heady cocktail. Legend has it that Mykonos was the
scene of a gory battle between Zeus and the Titans in which Hercules vanquished
the giants by hurling boulders at them. Many still be lieve that under the island's
imposing blocks of Mykonian granite lie dead and buried Gods. Hence the name
“Mykonos“ (a mass of stones or a rocky place). Another tradition at tributes
the island's moniker to a local hero, Mykonos, the grand son of Apollo. Apart
from its fascinating provenance, the island is proud of its spectacular
makeover wrought by the local authorities. From being a favoured haunt of
backpackers, the island has today repurposed itself as one of Europe's elegant
wining and dining playgrounds. The island's excellent infrastructure -bolstered
by luxury accommodation, gastronomy, branded shopping, chic lounges and beach
sports -has much to do with its pull. From simple bread & breakfasts to
private villas and boutique hotels, the island has the whole enchilada.
Cocktail of Modernity & Tradition
Chora is the pivot around
which Mykonos flows. A breathtakingly picturesque Cycladic town, it is a medley
of modernity and tradition. Its labyrinthine streets, whitewashed lanes, houses
and churches create a picture of enormous beauty. Chora is also illustrative of
how tourism and town planning can coexist harmoniously. Despite being
chock-full of commercial establishments (shops, cafés, galleries and marquee
brand outlets like Chanel and Burberry), commerce doesn't undermine the town's
identity.Despite exponential growth and development, Mykonos' traditional
Cycladic architectural style and character have not been tampered with, thanks
to stringent building regulations.
The idyllic Delos island is
a mere 30-minute water taxi ride from Chora.According to Greek mythology, this
was the birthplace of the twin deities Apollo (god of the sun) and Artemis
(goddess of the moon), which makes it one of the most sacred sites of ancient
Greece.
Mykonos is also dotted with
over 400 quaint, one-room, white-washed chapels. They were built, we are told,
by sail ors who vowed to construct them if they survived the tempestuous seas.
No less majestic are the island's storied windmills, especially the five
windmills clustered along the coast in Kato Myli.
Not for nothing does
Mykonos have a bacchanalian reputation. Home of Dionysus, the god of wine and
crazed dancing, the island today rivals Ibiza as a haven for partiers. It
offers some 20 atmospheric beaches, of which Paradise and Super Paradise beaches
are the most popular. Located at the southern tip of the island, both beaches
are mined with hotels that run party-oriented bars for beachgoers -perfect if
you want to dance in the sand all night to throbbing beats.
Life's an Exclusive Beach
The exclusive beaches on
the island's southern shore -with their fine sand and pristine waters
-apparently fetch their owners several thousand dollars for a few hours of use
by celeb clientele. Rumours were rife one day that Catherine Zeta-Jones and
Michael Douglas had descended in their private jet on one of these stretches.
Apart from celeb-watching,
there are other ways to spike your interest. Psarou Beach is a sports lovers'
paradise.We arrived here one balmy afternoon and got down to business pronto,
strapping up for stand-up paddling first, then a round of canoeing, followed by
some splashing around in the aquamarine waters till the sun vamoosed from the
sky.
When hunger pangs kicked
in, we sauntered across to a seaside café.Some of the most scrumptious and
authentic food in Mykonos is to be found in these tiny beachfront tavernas
owned by Greek or Cypriot families. We feasted on creamy spanakopita (spinach
pie), hot-off-the-grill souvlaki and fresh monkfish pan-fried to a gossamer
gold hue. This was followed by the habit-forming Greek gelatos which come in a
gazillion sinful flavours.
Mykonos rivals India in its
love for the yellow metal. Exquisite gold jewellery is ubiquitous -sold in
branded shops, tiny boutiques and at family-run enterprises. The gold tradition
has endured since the days of Alexander the Great.From loopy 18-carat gold
links to delicate anklets, the baubles are guaranteed to give your credit card
the workout of its lifetime. Yet, their loveliness -just like Mykonos' own -is
impossible to resist.
Neeta Lal
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ETM20MAR16
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