HEALTH The oil Wars
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What’s the healthier option: olive oil, palm oil or local Indian
oils? As the edible oil industry confuses us with its claims, we ask
nutritionist Pushpa Ladsariya to settle the debate and tell us how to avoid
blunders when using oil
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The past few decades have seen a lot of debate on the
consumption of fats (both liquid and solid) with innumerable studies
advocating one type over the other. So here’s the thing: your calorie intake
from fat should only be about 30-35 per cent, and as nuts and other foods
have hidden fats, you should only have 3-4 teaspoons of oil a day. Yes, you
must avoid trans fats and hydrogenated oils. Also, the content of SAFA
(Saturated Fatty Acids, found in animal fat and claimed to increase risk of
heart disease), MUFA (Monounsaturated Fatty Acids considered healthier) and
PUFA (Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids, found in plants, nuts, fish, etc., known
to lower risk of heart disease) matters. WHO recommends a SAFA: MUFA: PUFA
ratio of 1:1.5:1. But several other parameters also make oils work for or
against us—climate: what’s easily digested in cold weather, isn’t always in
heat; regional adaptability: consumption over generations also influences our
ability to adapt to foods; method of processing: cold-pressed oils have a low
smoking point while crushed and refined oils have a higher smoking point. The
smoking point of an oil determines the kind of cooking it is suitable for.
So here’s an easy guide to understand how indigenous and foreign
oils, popular among Indians, fare healthwise, and the right way to use them:
Coconut oil
Pros and cons: Used largely in south and west India, coconut oil
is extracted from the white, meaty part of the dried fruit. Its high
saturated fat content helps keep the skin hydrated, but can also increase the
risk of cardiovascular disease.
Use it right: As its smoking point is high, it is good for all
kinds of Indian cooking, including deep fried food. And its rich, fruity
flavour and fat content make it great (in virgin or extra virgin form) for vegan
desserts made without milk or mild products. The flavour also lends itself
well to Southeast Asian cooking.;
Olive oil
Pros and cons: If you’re health conscious, it’s most likely that
like many Indians, olive oil, which is an essential part of Mediterranean
cuisine, is your current favourite. It’s claimed to be heart-friendly and
easy to digest as it’s high in MUFA and low in saturated fats. But claims
keep changing. The important thing to remember is that generally cold-pressed
and sold in virgin or extra virgin forms, olive oil has a low smoking point.
So when heated, it is unstable. It mixes with free chemicals and becomes
hydrogenated, which may produce harmful trans-fatty acids and may even become
carcinogenic. Moreover, it’s far more expensive than mustard oil and
groundnut oil, which are almost equally low in saturated fats and high in the
other two.
Use it right: As olive oil doesn’t respond well to heat, use it
only to sautee or for salad dressings and dips. Avoid using it for tadka or
deep frying.
Sunflower oil
Pros and cons: Originating in the Americas, sunflowers are
cultivated in India too, largely in the southern and western belts. Its oil,
which is used more in the north, Gujarat and Maharashtra, is high in
polyunsaturated fat and linoleic acid. While PUFA is considered good for
health, this kind of fat when heated becomes toxic.
Use it right: Don’t go by advertisements. While it’s okay to use
sunflower oil to sautee or for tadka, you can’t use it for frying. It is good
for recipes that don’t require any flavouring from the oil, as sunflower oil
is almost flavourless.
Mustard oil
Pros and cons: Much lower than olive oil in saturated fats and
almost the same as olive oil in MUFA, mustard oil, which is much cherished in
India’s northern and eastern regions, has antibacterial, antifungal and
anti-inflammatory properties. But beware before using it orally in raw form,
as it may cause irritation and inflammation of the lungs, gastrointestinal
tract and intestines for some.
Use it right: Bengalis use the raw form to make pickles and
their version of bhel—jhal muri, thanks to its distinct flavour. Its pungency
and medium smoking point also make it useful for tadka in curries as well as
sauteed dishes, pastas and dips.
Groundnut oil
Pros and cons: Free from cholesterol, low in saturated fats and
high in MUFA, groundnut oil is a healthy option. It is rich in resveratrol,
known to prevent degenerative nerve disease. But those with peanut allergy
may be susceptible to rashes and swelling after eating meals cooked in
groundnut oil.
Use it right: While groundnut oil is popular in Southeast Asian
cuisine, this sweet, flavoured oil is vastly used for cooking by Gujaratis as
well as those living in Maharashtra and South India, possibly because of its
high smoking point. Its nutty flavour would also go well with pasta.
Rice bran oil
Pros and cons: Said to reduce LDL (low density lipoprotein),
rice bran oil, extracted from the outer (brown) layer of rice, is high in
MUFA and healthy. But it lowers the blood calcium in the body; while this
discourages the formation of kidney stones, it also makes one vulnerable to
hypocalcaemia. Moreover, for some its fibrous nature can also cause irritable
bowel syndrome.
Use it right: Its high smoking point makes rice bran oil good
for deep frying and its mild flavour works for chips or foods that require
flavourless oil.
(As told to Pooja Bhula)
With inputs on consumption patterns from Department of Food and
Public Distribution and India’s Agri Planning and Information Bank
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DNA10APR16
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