New Super Foods, New Avatars
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Mithila Mehta tells you why the forgotten secrets of your
grandmother’s kitchen and some exotic global ingredients are making waves in
contemporary, healthy cooking
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Kokum gets catchy
This tangy, tropical fruit has been loved by Indian cooks for
generations. However, it’s only now that the world is waking up to its many
virtues. “Kokum (garcinia indica) is great for reducing hyper acidity,
indigestion and gas. It is also rich in antioxidants and can help neutralise
free radicals,” explains fitness expert and founder of Kinetic Living, Urmi
Kothari.
From being a spice huddled away in traditional kitchens, it now
finds use in “many compotes and sauces in modern cooking. It’s a special
ingredient in any kitchen, used for its highly sour and mildly sweet taste,”
says chef Saransh Goila.
Thanks to kokum’s versatility, Novotel Imagica’s Executive Chef
Gaurav Charaborty uses it to “make a plethora of dishes from delicious
jellies to kokum cheesecake, gourmet kokum pizza and more. In the molecular
route, kokum foam is one of the most current forms of food art.” While kokum
coolers have been a household favourite to beat the heat, a chic alternative
is combining the healthy fruit with chia (from the mint family). What’s more
it’s an active ingredient in bars too, with drinks like Kokum Margarita to
Kokum vodka sherbet.
I for imli, I for
incredible
For most of us, this sour Indian fruit is reminiscent of many
happy childhood memories—but that’s not where the magic of imli stops. It
helps eliminate colon cancer causing toxins and also helps fight bad
cholesterol.
Says restaurateur Farrokh Khambata, “The new way to use imli is
by replacing the traditional sour ingredients in recipes with tamarind pulp.”
In its contemporary avatar, imli is also finding its way into burgers and
desserts. Chef Paul Kinny of Bellona Hospitality, explains: “Thanks to its
tangy taste, imli is a great core ingredient for barbecue sauce commonly used
in sandwiches and burgers at our restaurants.” For a dessert with an edge,
there’s a white wine-based imli sorbet.
With desi chic picking up as a hot trend in the world of
mixology, Chef Aditi Goel recommends an imli and sugarcane mojito. A personal
favourite is the ‘Shazia Imli’ (rum, tamarind, chilli paste, salt) at the
popular watering hole, Monkey Bar.
The farro factor
This marvelous grain is only produced in 50 small farms in
Tuscany, Italy — and yet, it has caught the world’s fancy. Farro is much
feted for its numerous health benefits. It is a rich source of protein,
vitamin B and complex carbohydrates and its fibre content is higher than that
of quinoa and barley. “Farro has been a mainstay of the Italian diet since
ancient times, and among all the other old-school emerging trends, this one
will remain evergreen,” says chef Goel.
The grain lends itself well to interesting soup and salad
preparations—the Tuscan farro soup with white beans and tomato is Goel’s
favourite. “Apart from soups and salads, one of the best ways to use farro is
by adding it to gravies. It can enhance even a tagine or a stew. Soaked Farro
grains can be toasted with butter, combined with chocolate and made into
health bars,” suggests chef Chakraborty.
Magic of matcha
A powdered green tea, this superfood from Japan is just what the
doctor recommended. “It is one of the richest antioxidants, it is has high
catechin content, specifically the type that’s recognised for its
cancer-fighting properties. Here’s a bonus: it increases the body’s inherent
rate of burning calories by four times the average,” says Urmi Kothari.
Matcha works well in desserts too. “Matcha is still finding its
path in India. It’s amazing for desserts, smoothies and shakes as it lends a
great colour and taste. Matcha also makes for a lovely garnish over a slice
of cake or while plating a dessert.” At St Regis, executive chef David Watson
uses it in “the 40 Layers Green Tea Cake and Green Tea Tiramisu. Another
interesting idea is a matcha sorbet spiked with sake (Japanese rice wine).
Matcha-flavoured cheesecake is also on my list.”
The Fatty Bao restaurants serve a delicious matcha-flavoured
Pistachio and Green Tea Chiffon Cake. This powdered tea is also becoming a
popular flavour in the world of chocolates, but those who don’t have a sweet
tooth mustn’t fret. Chef Chakraborty has an intriguing option: “Using matcha
powder in certain quantities yields excellent loaves of bread. Along with
cheddar cheese and a strawberry marmalade sandwich, it is a perfect high-tea
dish,” shares Saransh Goila.
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