Travel: An ode to the
not-so-royal side of Hyderabad
This charming city will not
only satiate your haleem and biryani cravings, but also give a taste of an
equally flavourful culture
On this overcrowded road, this eatery is a packed house. The
aroma of Hyderabadi cuisine overwhelms the evening’s tiredness, heat and the
usual chaos in the rush hours.
Four employees are working like robots to distribute, in small
plates, the dish that makes Hotel Shadab such a sought-after place: Haleem.
Others are polishing off their plates. I, like a true Bengali,
taste just two spoonsful of Shadab’s famous haleem but spend
more time talking about it.
They say that in every corner of old Hyderabad there’s
either haleem or biryani, and even a miniscule joint will
boast about being the greatest in this vibrant and spicy world of lip-smacking
food.
The city’s Grandeur is best viewed during the sunset, when the
Hussain Sagar whips cool breeze across its shores
The road to Charminar has turned into a makeshift market. I
negotiate my way between scooters and cycles, shoppers and shop-lifters,
families arguing about which sunglass to buy, delicate porcelain perilously
close to my elbow, protruding rods and dirty water.
Nearly an hour later, we are at the Charminar. I marvel at the
iconic monument while my friend Bappa and his wife Sam – in this city for six
years – curse us for wasting their precious Friday evening in a dirty market.
Let the feast begin!
A true Hyderabadi by heart and keen to prove that this city can
also be enjoyed differently, Bappa gets fried meat and prawns packed from a
nondescript take-away joint Sri Kanya the next day. With a wide grin, he also
opens two bottles of chilled, super strong beer. (Last time when I wanted such
a drink, my mentor Aditi Phadnis politely asked me, “Are you a mill mazdoor?”)
Sri Kanya delivers a blockbuster. The food is hot in true Andhra
style, but it is fresh and the spices create a riot of flavours in the mouth.
The place is new and I feel happy to make a discovery.
My wife drags me to her friend’s house in the most boring part
of the city (outside the window I see paddy fields). The two women decide in
favour of biryani for lunch. Since my opinion stands no chance, the iconic
Paradise or even Bawarchi’s legacy has no takers. We head to Café Bahar because
my wife declares, “Kalyan Karmakar has spoken highly of that place.”
It’s a Sunday, and the serpentine queue makes it look like a
polling booth during elections. Seats are available in the non-airconditioned
section but the women won’t compromise with the comfort of air-conditioning. My
job, for the time being, is to stand in the queue and every now and then ask
the man at the door, “How long do we have to wait?”
“Just 10 more minutes sir,” is his staple answer for about 30
minutes.
Hyderabad is not just about food stalls. Its architecture and
the Nizam-era jewels add glamour to it
The food, when we are finally served, is worth the wait. I
return to Delhi with splendid memories of listening to classical music at
Shilparamam, a long tour of Chowmahalla Palace, a visit to the Mecca Masjid and
tasting home-made ice cream.
The climate leaves you sweating, but it’s the warmth of the
Hyderabadis that melts your heart, I conclude munching on a Karachi Bakery
biscuit.
On repeat mode!
After a few months, I am again in Hyderabad. This time to report
on CPI(M)’s mega meet for HT. At the first opportunity, I hit
Bawarchi and then Paradise. The biryanis taste different but both get full
marks. They are not like my all-time favourite version from Kolkata’s Aminia,
yet both take one somewhere near divinity.
But when Bawarchi, Paradise and Sri Kanya are ticked off the
bucket list, I hit mid-life crisis. I check out a new Malayali eatery, hit
Bappa’s pad for a late-night music session and even visit the CPI(M)-run
canteen for a quick lunch break.
The no-frills makeshift canteen for the event is run by local
women who take pride in associating with communists but also welcome bourgeois
journos. I pick up a plastic plate and wait for my turn to be served rice, dal,
yoghurt and prawns.
The “loose prawns” or shrimps in a dry masala blow me away. I
never had anything like this. It’s not too heavy on spices, and the fresh
prawns leave a lingering aftertaste.
It’s too late to convert to communism. I do the next best thing.
Get hold of a senior CPI(M) Politburo member and tell him, “Your ideology is
not getting votes but your food can rule hearts.” He obviously gauges me as if
I am a neo-liberal conspirator of capitalism.
Beyond the binge
Hyderabad, however, is not just about a dream run in food
stalls. Its splendid architecture, the Nizam-era jewels carved in stones, add
glamour to the city. The grandeur of the city is best viewed during the sunset,
when the Hussain Sagar whips cool breeze across its shores and the world of the
stones comes alive. You fall in love with Hyderabad.
The evening rolls into night. I am at the posh Begumpet
neighbourhood to join a get-together at Sandy’s place. The host once played
cricket with Mohammad Azharuddin. He is now hyperactive and desperate to put
things in order for this guest from Delhi.
Two Sony speakers are rolled in. One of them is as tall as the
cabinet. “This is for karaoke,” Sandy smiles through his fat moustache.
At the far end, a glass cabinet is stacked with miniature
bottles of alcohol. The numbers are enough to put any shop to shame. “That’s a
stock of more than 170 brands. Thanks to my neighbour who has travelled to more
than 120 countries,” quips Sandy.
The rude shock comes when I try to open a bottle. The landlord
scrambles to remind us that these bottles are for show. The stuff to use is
kept elsewhere. He brings out a dusty bottle of Glenfiddich only to discover
that there’s no corkscrew at home.
Next, I see that they have broken the cork into pieces, which
are floating on the precious single malt. “Where is the sieve?” shouts
someone.The drinks are ready. The karaoke blares through the silent
neighbourhood.
And guess what Sandy’s daughter-in-law brings for me? A plateful
of home-cooked loose prawns!
Saubhadra
Chatterji
HTBR 19AUG18
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