SIDES, SAME CRETE
The largest island in Greece
offers two distinct experiences on its Eastern and Western coasts, each worth
discovering on its own
The most famous
mythological tale coming out of the largest of Greek islands is also the most
popular. For it is here that the Minotaur – the huge and handsome half-man,
half-bull is said to have been born after Cretan queen Pasiphaë made love with
a majestic bull. King Minos (hence the name Minotaur, meaning ‘bull of Minos’)
built a huge maze called the Labyrinth to house the beast, one with a design so
complex even the architect failed to understand it!
After several failed
attempts by many brave warriors, it was Athenian boy prince Theseus, all of 19,
who, with the help of King Minos’s daughter, killed the Minotaur and escaped
the maze. She slipped him a ball of wool, they say, which helped him retrace
his steps in the Labyrinth…
Theseus went on to found
the city of Athens, which is today the capital of Greece and, as many would
believe, the birthplace of Western civilisation.
HERE
COMES THE SUN
Intriguing as these
stories can be, none of this was on our mind as we sat at the back of our
comfortable S-Class, driving towards the Eastern end of the island. Our
chauffeur had a playlist titled ’80s Forever, and it warmed the hearts of all
of us pushing 40. The fact that Heraklion airport, the bigger one of the two on
this island, was a disorganised mess, faded from our memories as we listened to
Santana and drove up the northern coastline.
The
East is the less dense, more exclusive part of the island, and even before we
reached our resort, we discovered a town called Agios Nikolaos. Framed by the
blue Mediterranean and yearround sunshine, this place is what postcards are
made of. Hospitals and schools lined the Main Street, and we found ourselves
motelspotting; this was a city to come back to.
Our driver brought us
back to reality. We’re just 10 minutes from our destination, he said, and it is
the resort we’re all very proud of.
As it turned out, The
Daios Cove Resort And Spa is one of the most luxurious properties not just on
Crete, but in all of Greece. Gulf royalty and Hollywood stars have visited, but
for them, no S-Class will do; a chopper service from the airport flies them in.
Built on a
crescent-shaped lagoon, you enter the hotel lobby from the fifth level, then
keep going a level down to discover the coffee shop, the spa, the two
poolsides, and eventually, the beach. Several funiculars are available, but
sometimes, taking the winding staircases can lead to interesting discoveries.
Our villa had a sea view
and a heated pool, and despite the industrial size of the resort, ample privacy
could be found, except perhaps, when scoring a table at the more popular ones
of the seven restaurants. The mantra: book early!
After a fruitful day of
lazing and vegetating at the spa, we decide to head out. A little past our
beautiful Agios Nikolaos, we found a neighbourhood called Plaka, which, we were
disappointed to learn, is as touristy as tourist traps come. Thankfully, we
escaped by hopping onto a ferry to an island that’s also a fortress, called
Leper Island, or officially – Spinalonga.
Until just a few decades
ago, lepers were believed to be diseased and contagious by society, so they
were banished here. Over time, the lepers developed a colony of their own: with
homes, trade and businesses, and proved they weren’t to be outdone.
The walk around Leper
Island and ferrying in the hot sun may leave you exhausted. So it may be an
idea to stop by at Taverna Giorgos for lunch. The Armenian family who runs the
restaurant has regular customers more loyal to them than they are to their
countries. The freshest seafood can be had here, and even though the restaurant
is “priced for tourists,” prices for food and drink in Crete can be less than
half of what you’d pay on Santorini or Mykanos.
Eastern Crete, we learn,
also has a thriving party scene. But is that all that this island has to offer?
ROUGH
AROUND THE EDGES
Absolutely not, announces
Stavros, our Cretan driver from across the island. He is entrusted with the responsibility
of picking us up and driving us west. He even buys us coffee along the way. “If
Greek people are the warmest Europeans you’ll find, Cretans are the warmest of
the Greek,” he tells us.
The music in the car
today is Greek, and the conversation is entertaining. Both airports are on the
northern coast of the island, and the Western one is in Chania, close to where
we are headed, he says.
Our destination here is a
resort called Royal Blue Resort & Spa, an American-sized
XL resort. But wait, we’re told. The adults-only retreat is now opening itself
up to families: there is a new kids’ centre, a teenagers’ play area, besides
adults-only pools and activities. Run by a traditional Cretan family, it is
here that one can experience the nature of the islanders, fantastic local food,
and with some coaxing, a free guide to exploring the western part of Crete.
When we visited, a private marina was being constructed from where a visit to
Santorini is just a two hour boat ride away. Just remember: you’ll be paying 10
euros for your martini there, compared to 4 in Crete!
By Surabhi
Damodaran-Grover
HTBR 9SEP18
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