If You’re And You
Know It... Holiday!
Doing three
cities in the world’s happiness capital, Bhutan, can leave you rejuvenated for
life
Bhutan’s
scenic distinctiveness gives visitors an opportunity for unique journeys of
discovery
LANDING ON the 6,500 feet
Paro runway is not easy. The plane air-kisses precariously-perched houses and
high fives 16,000 feet stoic mountains. Pilots have to rely less on instruments
and more on visual meteorological conditions. No wonder, there are just eight
pilots in the world who are certified to land at Paro.
As one steps out of the
aircraft one cannot help but notice the brazen beauty of Bhutan. She is
unwaveringly untouched. Poetically pristine. Above all she is shy. Very, very
shy.
Sylvia Plath once wrote,
“So many people are shut up tight inside themselves like boxes, yet they would
open up, unfolding quite wonderfully, if only you were interested in them.”
The thing about Bhutan is
that every few people are interested in it. The few that are, are besotted by
it. As you unbuckle your seat belt, your mind is prepared to leave a few things
behind in the plane: the hurriedness of life, the urgency of expectations and
the scarcity of attention.
In his brilliant piece,
The Virtue of Stillness, Pico Iyer says, “In an age of speed, I began to think,
nothing could be more invigorating than going slow. In an age of distraction,
nothing can feel more luxurious than paying attention. And in an age of
constant movement, nothing is more urgent than sitting still. You.”
Bhutan is still. It is
quiet. Its valleys whisper. Its rivers gurgle. Its mountains, mute in their
majesty.
Great hotels are
thoughtful first, beautiful later and efficient, lastly. As Pema, our guide and
friend ushered us into the waiting car, he handed us a kit that contained
candied ginger, a little something that would prevent motion sickness. It was
gesture tossed in thoughtfulness.
And then, without much
ado, he whispered, “Welcome to Amankora.” Combining the Sanskrit word for
‘peace’ with kora or ‘circular pilgrimage’ in Dzongkha, the Bhutanese language,
Amankora is a series of lodges punctuating the central and western valleys of
Bhutan.
Bhutan’s rivers have
forged deep valleys curtained by high mountain passes. Historically isolated,
each valley’s scenic distinctiveness and topography gives visitors an
opportunity for unique journeys of discovery between them. These are
multi-faceted journeys. They are journeys of geography, of history, of culture,
of food, of wellness, of calmness. Above all, they are discoveries of oneself.”
The lodges are located in the valleys of Paro, Thimphu, Punakha, Gangtey and
Bumthang. They are siblings of solitude, simplicity and sophistication. We
first arrived at The Aman in Thimpu. In The
Honourable Schoolboy, John
Le Carre wrote, “Home’s where you go to when you’ve run out of homes.” And The
Aman is just that for its countless devotees. A home of a fine friend. There
are no receptions. No lobbies. And the architecture overwhelms you.
Unknown to many, there
are actually a lot of things to do in Thimpu. There is the absolutely majestic
Trashi Chhoe Dzong, seat of the government and royal offices. It warrants a
visit.
I also have a deep
interest in food, so The Farmer’s Market in Thimpu was right up there on my
list of things to do. It is spotlessly clean. Pick up some deviously spicy
dalley paste from there. And while at it, do stock up on kargyong (smoked, dry
sausages). The pork in Bhutan is pure joy.
Incense (Poi) is also an
integral part of Bhutanese life. And it comes to life in the market. There are
sacks containing Juniper and Cypress. I carried back truckloads of them.
And of course, you must
buy yourself a Goh, their national dress for men. It is absolutely way too
cool.
Bhutan is also the Mecca
of handmade paper. It is made from the bark of two trees: Daphne and Dhekap. In
fact, a trip to Thimpu is incomplete without a visit to the Jungshi Paper
Factory. It has all kinds of paper and paper products. Including the one made
with marijuana leaves.
After all the divine
shopping, make room for the divine. I was fortunate to spend two hours with
Mynak Tulku, the 12th Reincarnate Lama of the famous Mynak Rinpoche.
The next day, it was time
to visit Punakha. Formerly, the capital of Bhutan, Punakha has tremendous
significance to this day. All ceremonies of significance commence there.
Including the wedding of the beloved King, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel
Wangchuck, which took place at the Punakha Dzong, another architectural marvel.
At Punakha, I recommend a
picnic by the river. The Pho Chhu (father) and Mo Chhu (mother) rivers in the
Punakha–Wangdue valley are beautiful. Spread a table and some sunshine besides
them.
Our last leg in Bhutan
took us back to Paro. Don’t expect a red carpet welcome. Instead expect a bed
of orange pine needles leading you into the lodge. A beautiful stream that cuts
across the property. This stream is used to water the myriad plants of the
Aman’s own herb garden. Equally lovely is the coop which breeds hens that supply
fresh eggs to your table for breakfast.
Paro’s main street has
the loveliest places. Do pop by at the Champaca Café. It has the most charming
coffee in Asia. And a staggering carrot cake. The trinkets store next to it has
remarkable bead bracelets and chimes. Across the road are stores selling some
heart-warming yak wool scarves.
In Paro, light 108 butter
lamps at Kyichu Lhakhang, one of Bhutan’s oldest temples dating back to the 7th
century. The lighting symbolises dispelling the darkness of ignorance and helps
increase one’s merit in life. What also lights up your eyes is the brilliant
Bhutanese cuisine. While the non-vegetarian fare pairs odd lads like beef with
radish, it is the vegetarian fare (spinach) that ignites the soul.
· By
Swapan Seth
· HTBR131116
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