Big Surprises In Little Male
While
the Maldives is all azure ocean and golden sands, its capital is full of
unexpected sights
The nation of 1,190 islands has an
artificial beach in Male
THE MALDIVES, to me, has always been
a dream (and an expensive) destination. So when I chanced upon an exciting
deal, what else could I do but jump at the opportunity?
And jump I did. Alone. Flying solo
to a place where most tourists walk arm-in-arm (and sneak a kiss behind your
back) is just as funny as it sounds, especially since I chose to visit the
capital Male, not some idyllic island of the archipelago. They even made fun of
me at the immigration offices in Cochin.
LAND AHOY
Stepping onto Male, after a short
ferry ride from the airport, located on a separate island, gives you a pleasant
but distinct shock. The Maldives being an Islamic nation, I was expecting the
usual markers – tunics, burqas and beards. Instead, I found young bikers
zipping through crowded streets and women matching hijabs with modern outfits,
gossiping as they watched a game of football. Older men cheered the players
from their hammocks. I might as well have touched down in Goa.
Male is beautiful in a way only a
beachside big city can be. Buildings vie for sunlight, the roads are narrow and
so intertwined, they fox even experienced drivers. Oh, and everyone prefers
bikes to cars, so think twice if you’re planning to travel with an array of
suitcases. There are taxis, but you’ll have to wait for them to show up. The
most exotic wildlife here are cats, pigeons and the occasional cockerel. Pigs
and dogs are not permitted into the country. There are only two dogs in the
Maldives! They’re kept at the airport to sniff out drugs – a major problem
facing this island nation.
SIGHT AND SOUND
There’s plenty to see in Male, but
that doesn’t mean you need the constant patter of a guide. Start at Hukuru
Miskiiy, the oldest mosque in the Maldives, which dates back to 1656 and
flaunts breathtaking woodcarvings, lacquerwork and calligraphy. The structure
is made from coral, rare for a mosque anywhere in the world. Relax at
Independence Square, nicknamed Little Bangladesh, where migrant workers
congregate at dusk for a chat. And be prepared for passive smoking wherever you
go. If the rest of the Maldives cashes in on its pristine atmosphere, Male is
full of smokers.
But if you really want to do as the
locals do, head to the artificial beach next door. Yes, in a country of 1,190
islands and 400 miles of coastline, they really have built an artificial beach
in the capital. The idea was to give locals a place to make merry without
having to go to another atoll – because the government thinks they take life
too seriously!
Also at the beach is the Tsunami
Memorial, erected in memory of those who lost their lives in the 2004 deluge
that also wrecked much of the nation’s infrastructure. It’s an ideal place to
unwind after a day of sightseeing. You can sit by the sea and watch the sun set
or go for a swim or surf – so long as you’re appropriately clothed. This isn’t
Goa after all.
The highlight of my tip was a visit
to the National Museum. Did you know that Maldives was once a monarchy? Or that
the traditional
dhoni (boat) is crafted from oral
traditions, not an instruction manual. Smart, witty Myeha, my guide, had an
open personality and a pleasant attitude. She not only gave me a deeper insight
into the Maldivian past, but also its present and future.
SHOW AND TELL
Much of Maldivian culture is also
evident on the streets. Conversations are easy – not just because the locals
are fans of Indian soaps – but because they value frank dialogue. But if you’re
not the verbal type, the next best social lubricant is football. I had the
pleasure of watching Maldives take on Pakistan in a friendly match and was
taken aback by the sheer energy of the crowd.
Male isn’t for rave parties, for
celebrity-style privacy, or a solid week of shopping and bargain hunting. But
as I heard the call to prayer sounding from the minarets each day, I began to
finally feel at peace in a land that is a parody in paradise.
- by Viren D’Sa HTBR130519
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