TRAVEL SPECIAL.... What’s in a name?

 What’s in a name?

With Allahabad acquiring a new name, here’s looking at the many iconic landmarks that lend the city its identity while allowing a glimpse into India’s history

You know a city's relationship with its rulers is complicated when its name gets changed every few hundred years. Once upon a time, there was a city called Prayag. Then one day, it was turned into Illahabad, which somehow morphed into Allahabad. More recently, another ruler gave its story a fresh twist by renaming it Prayagraj. No one is quite sure where the suffix 'Raj' came from. Not that it matters beyond a point. In a city where the spiritual outweighs the physical, life goes on.

Prayagraj is a city of many layers and if you examine the region, it becomes even more complex. The focal point of course is the Sangam, a space where the Ganga and the Yamuna come together in a confluence with the fabled Saraswati, a space so revered that it occupies a central position in Hindu scriptures. It also gives birth to the Kumbh Mela, arguably the largest human congregation in the world. With the Ardh Kumbh commencing on January 15th, 2019, the city is gearing up for an influx of people that outweighs its total population.

Within Prayagraj

But there is much more to the city beyond the Kumbh. Overlooking the Sangam is the vast Allahabad Fort, a 16th century structure built by Mughal Emperor Akbar. Over time, the fort came into the hands of the East India Company which established a military presence within. Interesting elements within the fort include an Ashokan pillar which dates to 250 BCE. The pillar is a veritable record-keeper of Indian history, showcasing an Ashokan inscription originally as well as later inscriptions of the Gupta ruler Samudragupta and Mughal Emperor Jahangir.

Within the fort's precincts is the Akshay Vat tree, another of Prayagraj's elements that finds mention in Hindu mythology. There is also a Rani Mahal of the Mughal era, albeit in a state of total neglect inside the fort premise. The finest Mughal site in the city is undoubtedly the Khusrau Bagh, named after a Mughal prince whose rebellion against the Emperor resulted in blinding. The complex houses four tombs -Khusrau's own along with that of his mother, sister and a certain Bibi Tamolan.

After the Mughals came the British and their architectural traditions left a huge mark on the city. Principally in the Allahabad University, once considered one of India's finest centres of higher education. Much of the institution's sheen has faded, but buildings such as the one housing the Faculty of Science still reflect past grandeur. The university has borne witness to much change in the campus and outside, such as the conversion of the erstwhile Mayo Hall to Amitabh Bachchan Sports Complex. Also dating back to the British era are the Swaraj Bhawan and Anand Bhawan, houses.

There is one place in the city which should be a mustvisit for all Indians: formerly called Alfred Park, the city's largest green space is the site where iconic freedom fighter Chandrashekhar Azad sacrificed his life during a gun battle with the police. The park is named after him now. Close by is the Allahabad Museum, a repository of the region's history.

Outside Prayagraj

If you're the sort who wants to keep away from the kind of vast crowds the Kumbh will bring, there is plenty around the city to keep you interested, especially if you are a history lover. East of the city lies Kausambhi. As per local traditions, the Pandavas moved their capital from Hastinapur to this place, along the banks of the Yamuna. Beyond the mythology, Kausambhi was considered a major urban centre during the Maurya and Gupta period and was visited by the Buddha several times. Extensive excavation has revealed significant remains here, dating across eras, including another Ashokan pillar.

South of Prayagraj lies another iconic site. This is the fortified temple complex of Garhwa, housing the remains of several temples. In a closed storage area lie its real treasures - a massive set of sculptures from the Gupta period. There is a full set of Vishnu's incarnations - the Dashavatara - each stone representation being over six feet in height. The size and beauty of these icons makes one wonder how stunning the original temples would have been.

Close to Garhwa is Bhita, site of a large excavated city. Further south, on the road that leads to Chitrakoot is Ramnagar, which houses a large Chandella temple on the banks of a large pond. Close by, near the village of Bara, is the Ginja Hill, crowned by a Hanuman shrine. It is surrounded by remains of a much older temple. There can’t be any better way of spending a sunny winter afternoon than to explore the heritage around Prayagraj. So, dear visitor, remember that the Kumbh in Prayagraj is the tip of a very large iceberg. Keep your vehicle moving through the region to get the real feel of its heritage.

By Arjun Kumar
ETTR20DEC18