Saag
Saga
Go
healthy this winter with an assortment of leafy green vegetables
If April is
the beautiful — or cruel — month in conventional “Western” tenets, the
celebrated harbinger of spring, September in the subcontinent is equally
bounteous. It’s the traditional start of a mild winter; when the fury of the
monsoon abates, Ganpati is bid adieu, and preparations begin for the frenzy of
celebrations and rituals that culminate in Diwali fireworks. It is also the
time when kitchens across the country start cooking those leafy greens again —
after the rainy hiatus when “kharab patta” (spoilt leaves) are deemed
unsuitable for cooking, not just because the moisture in the air plays
freshness-spoiler but also because germs and worms can easily accompany the
greens. The onset of winter means that seasonal diets see a healthy incorporation
of spinach and methi, bathua, poi, a host of leaves from cauliflower to radish,
and amaranth (cholai) greens, the “new” superfood for the superfit that has
nevertheless been cooking in our kitchens for centuries, never mind the current
globalisation of the Indian palate.
When the Chill Sets In
Green, leafy vegetables have always been an intrinsic part of Indian diets and local saags find mention in Vedic literature. Subsequent texts not just describe a variety of these but also list their health benefits. In fact, ayurveda, that forms the underpinning of traditional Indian cooking in many ways, categorises many of these, such as mustard greens, as “hot” foods suitable for winter-eating. Equally, the pungency of mustard is seen as a suitable attribute while preparing a meal for those with a choleric temperament. And KT Achaya notes that the Bengali text Chandimangala that relates food to the temperament of diners describes sarson leaves being tempered and served up to the ascetic and angry Lord Shiva.
When we prepare our own sarson ka saag, that wonderful, satiating, sludgy mix, scooped off thick makki ki rotis and served up with a dollop of aromatic ghee on a cold day, the pungency of the mustard must, of course, be tempered. That is why you perhaps also serve the meal with a little bit of jaggery on the side. But there is a correct proportion to the saags that balance the bitterness of the mustard.
An Italian Job
I asked restaurateur and food consultant Sudha Kukreja for her recipe and she suggests mixing in 1/8th portions each of bathua and spinach leaves into the saag. Chop the leaves and pressure cook. Then, open and cook, smashing the leaves with the back of a spoon (or lightly run it in the blender), and mix in some makki ka atta (Indian corn flour) to thicken and bind it together. The traditional Punjabi tempering, Sudha says, used to be a few chopped tomatoes, ginger and green chillies. These days, onions and garlic also go into the mix. Choose what you will, but do add the butter!
During winter, what I really love is bathua, so scorned that its English common name is pigweed. But it is a delius saag — cook it with lots of garlic and bhuno it well n my home, it wouldn’t be deemed fit to consume before the quantity of the greens dwindled drastically after bhunoing in the wok). You can stuff this in paranthas for a hearty breakfast. And if you don’t want to overcook the greens, try eating the pahari way: Boil the leaves and grind to a chutney-like paste. Put a simple tadka of zeera and eat the watery saag with hot rice. Else, you can stuff it into your handmade ravioli for a chic twist to an Italian affair.
Popeye’s Choice
It is spinach, of course, that is widely known in Italian cuisine and makes for a great stuffing (with ricotta) in pies and pastas. The plant apparently was known in India much before it was known in Europe. But if you are cooking Italian or Mediterranean dishes with Indian spinach, make sure to sort out the leaves. Choose the youngest, baby leaves that have less iron content and are thus less harsh on the palate. Chef and restaurateur Ritu Dalmia has a lovely recipe in her book for a spinach and rice tart that can either be served warm or cold (if you are loath to be stuck in the kitchen while entertaining): blanch the spinach leaves and chop them. Prepare a basic risotto with rice, onions, stock and olive oil. Add spinach and parmesan cheese to this risotto and add some cream, nutmeg powder and eggs (4 eggs for 400 g spinach and 100 g risotto rice) to this. Season with salt and pepper. Now, in a preheated oven, dust a non-stick baking tin with more Parmesan and spread out the mix. Bake till golden. Let it cool. Cut into wedges and serve.
Spinach is also a great accompaniment for meats and chicken. So just like you’d make palak-paneer at home, try making palak chicken. Or mix some chopped up leaves in your moong dal and temper with asafetida and ginger juliennes for a light but nutritious lunch dish.
Tarami, a new Kashmiri restaurant, serves up a brilliant but simple haaq — the Kashmiri saag (if you can’t find it, substitute it with baby spinach leaves): The waza there gave me this recipe: Heat mustard oil in a wok and add garlic and whole Kashmiri red chillies. Add Kashmiri onion paste, stir, add 2 pieces of black cardamom and black pepper, some fennel powder and some saunth (dried ginger) powder with some water. When the water dries up, add chopped haak leaves along with some hot water. Cook till tender.
Whatever you choose to cook, it helps if it is green!
Thai Saag
On the streets of Bangkok, there can be nothing better than a simple meal of stir-fried Morning Glory, as it is commonly called, with rice and some aromatic curry. These days, it is possible to come across this leafy green in Indian markets and stores catering to everything “international” but don’t be surprised if you find it in the local mandi too. According to restaurateur Sudha Kukreja, who belongs to a Punjabi-Thai family, this is the same green as what is called “naarisaag” in many southern Indian states. You just need to recognise the leaves. Or substitute with baby spinach leaves (though, I must warn you, the taste will never be the same as what you have had in Thailand). Grind together some garlic and red chillies, sauté in oil and when these become aromatic, add in the leaves. Stir-fry for a bit. Add a little sugar and some light soy sauce. Turn off the flame immediately. Eat with rice and some Thai green curry.
When the Chill Sets In
Green, leafy vegetables have always been an intrinsic part of Indian diets and local saags find mention in Vedic literature. Subsequent texts not just describe a variety of these but also list their health benefits. In fact, ayurveda, that forms the underpinning of traditional Indian cooking in many ways, categorises many of these, such as mustard greens, as “hot” foods suitable for winter-eating. Equally, the pungency of mustard is seen as a suitable attribute while preparing a meal for those with a choleric temperament. And KT Achaya notes that the Bengali text Chandimangala that relates food to the temperament of diners describes sarson leaves being tempered and served up to the ascetic and angry Lord Shiva.
When we prepare our own sarson ka saag, that wonderful, satiating, sludgy mix, scooped off thick makki ki rotis and served up with a dollop of aromatic ghee on a cold day, the pungency of the mustard must, of course, be tempered. That is why you perhaps also serve the meal with a little bit of jaggery on the side. But there is a correct proportion to the saags that balance the bitterness of the mustard.
An Italian Job
I asked restaurateur and food consultant Sudha Kukreja for her recipe and she suggests mixing in 1/8th portions each of bathua and spinach leaves into the saag. Chop the leaves and pressure cook. Then, open and cook, smashing the leaves with the back of a spoon (or lightly run it in the blender), and mix in some makki ka atta (Indian corn flour) to thicken and bind it together. The traditional Punjabi tempering, Sudha says, used to be a few chopped tomatoes, ginger and green chillies. These days, onions and garlic also go into the mix. Choose what you will, but do add the butter!
During winter, what I really love is bathua, so scorned that its English common name is pigweed. But it is a delius saag — cook it with lots of garlic and bhuno it well n my home, it wouldn’t be deemed fit to consume before the quantity of the greens dwindled drastically after bhunoing in the wok). You can stuff this in paranthas for a hearty breakfast. And if you don’t want to overcook the greens, try eating the pahari way: Boil the leaves and grind to a chutney-like paste. Put a simple tadka of zeera and eat the watery saag with hot rice. Else, you can stuff it into your handmade ravioli for a chic twist to an Italian affair.
Popeye’s Choice
It is spinach, of course, that is widely known in Italian cuisine and makes for a great stuffing (with ricotta) in pies and pastas. The plant apparently was known in India much before it was known in Europe. But if you are cooking Italian or Mediterranean dishes with Indian spinach, make sure to sort out the leaves. Choose the youngest, baby leaves that have less iron content and are thus less harsh on the palate. Chef and restaurateur Ritu Dalmia has a lovely recipe in her book for a spinach and rice tart that can either be served warm or cold (if you are loath to be stuck in the kitchen while entertaining): blanch the spinach leaves and chop them. Prepare a basic risotto with rice, onions, stock and olive oil. Add spinach and parmesan cheese to this risotto and add some cream, nutmeg powder and eggs (4 eggs for 400 g spinach and 100 g risotto rice) to this. Season with salt and pepper. Now, in a preheated oven, dust a non-stick baking tin with more Parmesan and spread out the mix. Bake till golden. Let it cool. Cut into wedges and serve.
Spinach is also a great accompaniment for meats and chicken. So just like you’d make palak-paneer at home, try making palak chicken. Or mix some chopped up leaves in your moong dal and temper with asafetida and ginger juliennes for a light but nutritious lunch dish.
Tarami, a new Kashmiri restaurant, serves up a brilliant but simple haaq — the Kashmiri saag (if you can’t find it, substitute it with baby spinach leaves): The waza there gave me this recipe: Heat mustard oil in a wok and add garlic and whole Kashmiri red chillies. Add Kashmiri onion paste, stir, add 2 pieces of black cardamom and black pepper, some fennel powder and some saunth (dried ginger) powder with some water. When the water dries up, add chopped haak leaves along with some hot water. Cook till tender.
Whatever you choose to cook, it helps if it is green!
Thai Saag
On the streets of Bangkok, there can be nothing better than a simple meal of stir-fried Morning Glory, as it is commonly called, with rice and some aromatic curry. These days, it is possible to come across this leafy green in Indian markets and stores catering to everything “international” but don’t be surprised if you find it in the local mandi too. According to restaurateur Sudha Kukreja, who belongs to a Punjabi-Thai family, this is the same green as what is called “naarisaag” in many southern Indian states. You just need to recognise the leaves. Or substitute with baby spinach leaves (though, I must warn you, the taste will never be the same as what you have had in Thailand). Grind together some garlic and red chillies, sauté in oil and when these become aromatic, add in the leaves. Stir-fry for a bit. Add a little sugar and some light soy sauce. Turn off the flame immediately. Eat with rice and some Thai green curry.
Anoothi
Vishal ,Delhi-based food writer &
curates food festivals ET120909
No comments:
Post a Comment