WHAT SUITS YOU...
A good suit can make a strong, long lasting impression as well as change the way you look and feel. Here’s everything you need to know on how to choose, buy, wear and look after a suit
TYPES OF SUITS 1
Work & Business
For: The office, meetings, conferences and business trips Details: Solid colours, occasionally pin striped, medium weight and crease-free fabrics Who Makes Them Well: Hugo Boss, Armani, Van Heusen, Raymonds, Ermenegildo Zegna, Marks & Spencer, Reid & Taylor and Cue The Look: Straight trousers. Button down or shortcollared full-sleeve shirts, slim ties, pocket squares and cufflinks. Rounded and matt, laced shoes 2
Relaxed & Casual
For: Weekend brunches, the club, daywear and dress down events
Details: Pale colours, lightweight and soft fabrics, jackets that may be worn on their own with jeans, corduroys and casual trousers
Who Makes Them Well:
Esprit, United Colours of Benetton and Wills Lifestyle
The look: Jeans, cords and comfort fit trousers. Golf shirts, full sleeve round or V-neck tops. Laced or lace less, matching or contrasting coloured walking or casual shoes. Hat optional 3
Formal For: Sit down dinners, cocktails, award nights, weddings and receptions
Details: Dark colours, rich fabrics, materials with gloss and sheen
Who Makes Them Well: Armani, Hugo Boss, French Connection, Zara, Raymonds, Blackberrys and Allen Solly
The Look: Matching formal trousers. Shirts with prominent collars and cuffs. Ties, bowties and cufflinks. Laced — rounded or flat front — glossy dress shoes 4
Trendy For: Nightclubs, lounge bars and parties
Details: Bright colours, contrasting coloured buttons, cuffs or lapels. Fabrics that are printed, embellished or textured
Who Makes Them Well: V Dot, Sisley, Tom Ford, Ashish Soni and Arjun Khanna
The Look: Snug-fit jeans and slim-fit plain or printed trousers. Full-sleeve plain, printed or textured tops, dressy shirts. Pointed, rounded or flat front matt or high gloss shoes 5
Classic Nehru Jacket For: Formal occasions, weddings and while travelling overseas
Details: Distinct close neck collar, structured fit, short jacket length, matt crease-free fabrics and plain colours
Who Makes Them Well: Canali, Chanel, Tarun Tahiliani, Rohit Bal and a local and reputed (old school) men’s tailor
The Look: Colour coordinated straight trousers. Fitted high neck full sleeve tops, collarless or Chinese collar shirts. Laced formal matt shoes
JACKET STYLES AND CUTS
Single-Button Jackets: Wear them when you want to emphasise the shirt or tie that you have on underneath. For a ‘casual chic’ look, wear them over a plain or printed full-sleeve top
Two- and Three-button Jackets: Two-buttoned jackets with long lapels give you a flattering, longer silhouette. Similarly, jackets with three buttons add an illusion of length to the body
Double-breasted Jackets: The biggest drawback — they make you look boxy and a bit out of shape. The style is now considered vintage and it doesn’t get more outdated than this
THE FABRICS & MATERIALS
Thick, bulky and coarse fabrics should be avoided and softer ones embraced. Whatever the fabric of your choice, ensure it gives you a good smart fit, does not crease too easily or droop in high humidity. Always dress according to the weather and the season. Never wear a winter suit in summer or a summer suit in winter. Besides looking odd, you are bound to feel hot or cold underneath Day: Pick light, soft & crease-free materials — these could be plain, textured or printed Evening: Choose heavier, rich, textured or printed fabrics that could be matt or have a natural gloss or sheen Summer: Always wear fabrics that are light and airy — so you can stay well ventilated Winter: Stick to soft wool or wool blends that will keep you snug, warm and cosy Casual: Restrict yourself to lightweight and plain, soft fabrics Formal: Opt for medium to heavy weight fabrics — either plain or printed. My Tip: Always keep ‘off season’ suits ready on stand-by for that sudden and unexpected business trip
THE COLOUR PALETTE
A majority of suits come in varying shades of grey, brown, beige, blue and black. You may occasionally come across flamboyant ones in white, olive green, pink, red, lemon, burgundy or purple. Choose the colour to wear according to the time of day, where you are going to be & what the occasion is.
AM or PM: Wear lighter shades for day and darker ones for night
Day Colours: Restrict yourself to a grey or beige palette. Alternatively, you could break the monotony by wearing shades of white, olive green or brown
Evening Colours:
Dark tones of grey and brown. Navy blue and black are ideal to wear for a late evening party or a night out
My Tip: Choose suits according to skin tone — warm colours (brown and beige) work with dark skin tones and cold colours (grey and blue) with pale or light skin. Black and white can be worn by all skin tones THE RIGHT CHOICE Before you confirm, order or buy a suit, keep the following in mind:
1. How it Fits: Remember, the more structured and fitted your silhouette — the smarter you will look My Tip: Always ensure that your suit allows you to move with ease and that it does not crease too much — especially around shoulders and on sleeves 2. How it’s Made: While custom-made remains a favoured option, many ready-to-wear brands and designers retail well cut & well made off-the-counter suits that they will be happy to alter
My Tip: Before paying for your suit, you must do a final trial for the fit & fall
3. Is it Value for Money:
Never spend too much on a suit for the designer’s label or brand name, since very few people (except you) will actually see or know who has made it
My Tip: Spend on a good suit — not for the label, but good fabric, quality tailoring & fine craftsmanship
: Yatan Ahluwali, An image consultant, fashion and grooming expert and director, Y&E Style Media
ET120909
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