JEWELLED LAND
Home to a multitude of tribes, languages, traditional
dance forms and cloud-soaked hills, this forested country is meant for the
immersive traveller
First-time flyers to Manipur are
usually offered one piece of advice: Opt for the window seat. For, soon after
the aircraft flies over North-east India’s largest freshwater lake towards the
Tulihal airport, a most spectacular sight opens up – of greencoloured rings
that seem to float on the water surface. Post landing, as we drive past a
surreal landscape against the backdrop of picturesque mountains towards the
Loktak Lake, our host in Manipur tells us that what looks like rings from above
are really floating islands (phumdis as they’re referred to in the
local language). And one can actually walk on this floating biomass that
compromises weeds, vegetation and soil.
LAKE OR
LIFELINE?
Post a hearty meal on the shores
of the lake, we’re all set for a boat ride on its placid waters spread over an
area of 287 sq km. Wearing the mandatory life jackets, as we’re set to take
off, the boat owner issues a warning: “Take care of your phones.” No, they are
not likely to be flicked here but could slip into the water by some
enthusiastic shutterbugs attempting selfies. Soon, our motorboat is nosing its
way ahead giving us an up, close and personal view of the phumdis that,
incidentally, are a lifeline not just for its aquatic inhabitants and birds,
but also for fishermen. There are over 1,500 people staying on them and many of
them can be spotted on narrow boats as they go out fishing. Two Manipuri
students who were with us on the boat smile saying that much of Manipur’s
history, its folklore and tales revolve around this lake.
SLICE OF
HISTORY
Back on terra firma, it comes as
no surprise to see quite a few tourists sitting around, just enjoying the view
of Loktak’s pristine waters. Suddenly, there’s live music in the air and a
group of visitors from Thailand, break into an impromptu gig. And, needless to
say, get a loud applause for their graceful rendition. Next we head for the
historic Red Hill in the sleepy town of Moirang where, on April 14, 1944, the
Tricolour was unfurled for the first time on Indian soil. Besides the
100-year-old INA headquarters, stands the INA War Museum where this slice of
history unfolded. Just the place for history buffs, the interiors house not
just war artefacts including bombs, helmets and even a stretcher used in World
War II but also letters, old photographs of Netaji and his parents.
There’s also a Peace Memorial here
made by the Japanese in memory of their soldiers killed in battle against the
Allied Forces. The old chowkidar here, who incidentally has learnt to speak
Japanese, also tells you about the time the soldiers, after a fierce fight,
were forced to retreat. “There was a lot of bloodshed and the Japs had no
option but to flee. They hid among the trees in the forests around and even
took refuge in people’s homes.”
WOMEN POWER
Paying tribute at the Imphal War
Cemetery that houses the graves of 1600 Commonwealth soldiers, we head towards
the must-do destination of Imphal – Ima Keithel (Mother’s Market). What makes
it special is that it is run entirely by women. Men are allowed here to shop
but should they try to set up shop here, they’d be driven out! First-timers are
most likely to be overwhelmed by the thronging crowds but after the first few
moments, the spirit of the market envelops you as you climb the steps towards
its colonnaded halllike structure. The maze-like layout of the Keithal opens up
a fascinating world – right from the time we meet the beautiful 82-year-old
Noyon Sana who has been selling traditional textiles here since the 1940s. Hers
is one of the over 4,000 stalls selling a variety of wares from phaneks (sarongs)
and innaphis (shawls) that comprise the traditional dress of
Manipuri women, pouches, cosmetics, pots, spices. It’s fun chatting up the
ladies here who tell you that they come because it’s a good place to spend
their day, earn some money and supplement the family income. Hail women power,
we say. And get a beaming smile in return!
TL17FEB19
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