Travel .. FEEL THE BUZZ
The quintessential anti-capital, Osaka is warm and endearing on one hand and fun and quirky on the other
As the Shinkansen (bullet train) hurtled at a
dizzying speed from Tokyo, the passing Japanese countryside was a blur, save
for the occasional majestic sight of snowcapped Mount Fuji. Everything else
whizzed by in a haze. It was also incredibly silent inside the train till it
reached Osaka, apart for the sporadic announcement. And then all hell broke
loose!
Stepping into the Shin-Osaka train station was like
being hit by a wall of sound. A million loud conversations swirled around,
unlike the relative noiselessness of Tokyo. A bigger surprise was on the
escalators: people stood on the right, in contrast to Tokyo’s left, and
unceremoniously shoved those on the wrong side. It was a quick and stark
initiation into Osaka’s contrariness, and why it was called the ‘anti-capital’.
In fact, everything was a bit different; even the Osakan dialect was both
lilting and rougher. And conversations were colourful as were the streets and
the people.
PULSATING WITH LIFE
As first impressions went, Osaka seemed like an urban
sprawl gone awry. But from the Harukas 300 observatory on the 60th floor of the
Abenobashi Terminal building, the cityscape seemed lovely, made more so by Yodo
river and its tributaries cutting through the city. From up there, the city
looked serene and felt restful, but was altogether different on the ground. It
did have its sights such as the Osaka Castle, an impressive Japanese-style
structure with moat and gardens, Shintennoji temple, Sumiyoshi shrine, the
aquarium and puppet shows. But the city and its people were more captivating.
And there was a compelling reason: an ancient 6th century city, Osaka, however,
was never part of Japan’s political scheme of things. But rather than sulk, it
chose to build its own quirky image and reputation; something that seemed to
have been a thumping success, as I soon realised.
Even during the day, the city’s bright neon lights
were flashing. But one could still spot the city’s soul between its pulsating
shopping districts. In Dotonbori, the most popular shopping area with towering
complexes and streets packed with eateries, I glimpsed a bit of old Osaka.
Narrow stone alleys disappeared into the distance and opened suddenly into
little courtyards with Buddhist temples, which unapologetically rubbed
shoulders with izakaya bars and hole-in-thewall restaurants.
As I wandered around Shinsaibashi, Midosuji and
Amerikamura, I was buffeted by waves of indulgence. Massive shopping centres
competed for clientele and a noisy buzz filled the air. Local and global
brands, luxury and everyday products, hip and vintage wear competed with
souvenirs and trinkets. At Ebusibashi, the shops spilled with masses of
youngsters hanging out noisily.
JAPAN’S KITCHEN
But as much as shopping was front and centre, it was
more a foodie paradise. Not for nothing did Osaka have the nickname tenka
no daidokoro (Japan’s kitchen) and wore it proudly. Food was
everywhere – street food, tiny eateries, cafes, pubs, smart restaurants... At
its heart were some of Osaka’s most popular dishes: street snack takoyaki,
fritters stuffed with octopus; okonomiyaki, a cross between an omelette and a
pancake, heaped with meat, seafood, noodles, shredded cabbage and sauces;
kushikatsu, deep fried skewered vegetables, meat or quail eggs; kitsune udon, a
thick noodle soup heaped with fried tofu, and much more. For the adventurous,
there was also fugu, poisonous pufferfish!
As the day turned into evening, the whole place got a
bit more frenzied and yet, there were little islands of calm which provided the
perfect spot to watch as another Osaka day came to a close.
Anita Rao Kashi
TL 4FEB18
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