Deccan IN SLOW-MO
Eight enriching
days spent on a train across the Deccan Plateau are enough to put the magic
back into train travel
In this age of all things instant, trains give us
that perfect opportunity to experience life in the slow lane. They evoke a
sense of nostalgia and bring memories and stories of faraway sojourns. So, here
I was aboard a train chugging along the Deccan Plateau of India. The plan was
to disembark each day to experience a new marvel, beginning with Bijapur,
moving on to Aihole-Badami-Pattadakal, then Hampi, followed by Hyderabad and
finally to the stunning Ellora and Ajanta Caves, before heading back to Mumbai.
ARCHITECTURAL HIGH
I was excited about the vistas that were about to
unfold in front of me – some of the country’s most gorgeous mausoleums,
palaces, temples and fortifications. The next morning, the train rolled into
Bijapur (renamed as Vijapura in 2014), our very first stoppage. Post a hearty
breakfast, we took off to discover all about Deccan’s Islamic era in the
historic city that was once the capital of the Adil Shahi kings. At the
magnificent Gol Gumbaz mausoleum, we clambered a few octagonal seven-storey
towers of the dome and witnessed terrific acoustics of the circular ‘whispering
gallery’. After observing the graceful arches and spacious inner courtyard of
the Jama Masjid, we headed to Malik-e-Maidan to witness the 4-metre-long cannon
that was brought to the city as a war trophy by 10 elephants, 400 oxen and
hundreds of men. The finely-proportioned Islamic monument Ibrahim Rouza with
its intricate calligraphic embellishments is a complete delight for
architecture aficionados. Its 24m-high minarets are said to have inspired those
of the Taj Mahal.
DAZZLING ARTISTRY
The third day was devoted to exploring the ancient
Chalukyan regional capital of Aihole and nearby Pattadakal. Punctuated with
more than 125 temples, all built between the 4th and 6th centuries AD, Aihole
is an introduction to the Dravida (south Indian) and Nagara (North Indian)
architectural styles. The Durga, Lad Khan, and Meguti temples portrayed
significant events from Hindu mythology and proved to be absolute stunners.
However, the high point of the day was the Pattadakal Temple Complex, a group
of finely carved Hindu and Jain temples that collectively make a World Heritage
Site. Every figurine and sculpture in the complex dazzles with artistic
excellence.
TEXTILE HAVEN
For train travellers, adhering to a schedule is
essential. Hence we moved on to exploring the royal city of the Nizams. The
highlight of the day was indulging in high tea at the astoundingly opulent
Falaknuma Palace Hotel, the former residence of the sixth Nizam. Another
absolute must-visit is a weaving unit located a few kilometres from the bustle
of Hyderabad. The looms focus on the revival of Persian brocades, particularly
Mashru, Himroo, Jamavar and Paithani. Run by widows, the store adjoining the
workshop is a textile lover’s treasure and stocks a wide range of ikat and
kalamkari print fabrics in earthy colours.
At last we were at Aurangabad, the nearest railhead
to Ellora cave temples. The world’s largest monolithic sculpture, Kailasa
Temple is one of the best examples of ancient Indian architecture. Used as
monasteries, chapels and temples, the caves served every purpose. As the
remarkable train journey was nearing an end, we realised the trip had allowed
us time to repose rather than being a stressful interlude between home and
destination...
Taking in the sights, sounds and smells on way, we
entered Hospet railway station, the gateway to the UNESCO World Heritage Site
of Hampi. The city impresses you with its haunting ruins. The giant monolithic
statue of Narasimha, the dramatic Tungabhadra river surrounded by boulders, the
ornate elephant stables, the intricate stonework at Hazara Rama Temple, the
bustling Hampi Bazaar – all remind you of an era gone by. The Archaeological
Museum in Hampi is one of the most noteworthy tourist places with four
different art galleries that house a wide variety of artefacts. Ancient coins,
statues, paintings, metal plates, armoury and sculptures of various Hindu
deities can be found here.
Shikha.Shah@timesgroup.com
TL18FEB18
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