TECH TEXTILE SPECIAL THE SOFTER—AND MORE WEARABLE—FUTURE OF WEARABLES
AMANDA
PARKES IS BRIDGING THE WORLDS OF TECH AND FASHION TO MAKE SURE
NEXT-GEN WEARABLES LOOK LESS LIKE WATCHES AND MORE LIKE SCARVES.
A
milky white, stiletto-shaped mold is sitting on Amanda
Parkes's
desk. It's the beginnings of a project to restructure high heels to
make the notoriously painful shoes more comfortable. "If men had
to wear high heels, this would have been addressed 100 years ago,"
says Parkes, the design director for the product, which comes by way
of Thesis,
a new shoe company founded by a former SpaceX employee. Next to that
is half of a bra, a model for a new shape of memory polymer insert.
When finished, instead of using an underwire, the garment will
respond to body heat, molding to a woman's shape. "It will be
much more comfortable," says Parkes.
Those
are just two of the projects Parkes has taken on as a fashion-tech
consultant with her company Skinteractive
Studios,
which she founded in 2009 to help develop wearables. A product
engineer by training, Parkes engages with both the conceptual and
practical. She worked with a French contemporary dance company to
create a performance in which the dancers power the show with their
movements. She's also advising Ringly,
a connected ring that looks more like a piece of jewelry than a
gadget.
Tellingly,
what you don't see in her portfolio is a smartwatch. "If you
look out there, it's basically Misfit wearables,
the Apple Watch, the Fitbit—these are companies that are basically
making gadgets that are attached to your body. That's not innovation,
really," she says. Indeed, the current wearable landscape
includes gadgets both
ugly and useless.
Even the best smart watches and bracelets only have so much
potential: A wrist can only tell a gadget so much, and there is only
so much room on our arms for gadgets.
Instead,
Parkes is thinking beyond connected jewelry. Wearables of the future
will cover the entire body and do a host of things we can't yet
imagine. Instead of making a pretty wrapping for a limited edition
FitBit, Parkes wants to create entire new categories of yet-to-be
imagined products. She's working with Google,
for example, to create first ever interactive textile. "That's
where I want to be in the space."
And,
as far as market potential goes, it's the right place to be.
Recent projections from
Gartner predict that "smart garments"—currently just a
blip in the wearables market—will outsell "smart wristbands"
and become a regular part of our wardrobes. By 2016, smart garments
are expected to make up $26 million of a $91 million market for
wearables, vs. $19 million for wristbands. The projects Parkes is
working on now may very well be what you are wearing in five years.
WHERE SCIENCE, ENGINEERING, AND FASHION MEET
Parkes
says she has loved fashion since a young age. When she says fashion,
though, she doesn't mean devouring Vogue and
wearing the latest trends. She dresses more like a design-minded
person than a fashionista, pairing geometric jewelry with structural
high-heeled booties. "She means it at a much more intellectual,
philosophical, deep level than most people think about it,"
Dolly Singh, the founder of Thesis, says. For Parkes, what we wear
reflects culture and personal expression.
At
her Redondo Beach, California, high school, she gravitated toward
math and science as much as art. At Stanford,
she discovered she could combine those seemingly disparate interests
as a product design engineer, getting a BS and BA in mechanical
engineering and art history, respectively.
After
school, she got a Guggenheim fellowship, worked as a curator in
various museums, and taught herself to code. In 2002, she landed
at MIT's
Tangible Media Group, where she was first introduced to fashion tech.
"I was seeing really kind of disturbing examples of what people
thought were wearables," she recalls. The space at the time
lauded creations like
Steve Mann's cyborg face-computer—nothing
actually wearable.
While
building her master's thesis, Topobo,
connectable Lego-type pieces that can record and remember motion, she
pursued various fashion side projects, such as the "little
black piezoelectric dress,"
which used the wearer's motions to charge batteries. She also curated
fashion-tech runway shows that showcased wearables like a solar
bikini that charges a cellphone, and a dress with thermochromic
paint
on
it that changes colors as the wearer walks. Most of the creations
fell into the concept art category, or, as Parkes calls it,
"computational couture."
She
stayed on at MIT for a PhD, focusing on kinetic interaction
design—the mechanics of how to design objects with movement in
mind. Her thesis included various projects, including Bosu, a soft
material that could remember a specific shape when molded. Despite a
continued interest in fashion tech, after getting her PhD, Parkes
went to work for a biotech startup she cofounded called Bodega
Algae.
The company's goal was to scale up algae production to use as
biofuel. Too early to the space, Bodega Algae shut down in 2011. From
that point forward, Parkes focused entirely on product design.
CREATING LEATHER FROM KOMBUCHA
In
her office, Parkes lifts up a Tupperware container filled with what
looks like one of yellow blobs teachers use in health class to
demonstrate five pounds of congealed fat. "This is the waste
product of
kombucha" she explains. It feels like cold, raw chicken. "It
turns into this bio-leather. It's very tough. You can dye it, you can
sew it." The faux-leather
jackets Biocouture makes using the after-parts of the hippy drink
look pretty badass.
There is one major problem: The material absorbs water when it gets
wet, a non-starter for a jacket replacement.
Not
for Parkes. She knows a company making a non-toxic hydrophobic
coating process, and plans on bringing the two innovations together
at Manufacture
New York,
a fashion incubator and manufacturing
hub opening
up
in Sunset Park next year, where Parkes is the CTO. Parkes will fold
her gigs at Skinteractive
Studios
into
the tech R&D lab inside the space. Modeled after the MIT
Media Lab,
Manufacture New York will bring together manufacturers, fashion
designers, technologists, and scientists all in one Brooklyn
warehouse with the hope of promoting the cross-fertilization of
ideas.
Having
straddled the lines between fashion and tech for over a decade,
Parkes's biggest asset is acting as a translator between the two
worlds. "There are very few people who either want to bridge
this space or who effectively do bridge this space," says Daniel
Steingart, a professor at Princeton
working
with Parkes to create a battery that looks indistinguishable from a
shirt. Thesis brought on Parkes specifically to get its space
engineers to talk to its shoe designers.
The
divide she's bridging is great. Advances that will truly bring
fashion and tech together, like connectors between any kind of wire
and any kind of fabric, don't yet exist. But it's necessary for
technology to weave its way into our clothes. "It's the 'Intel
inside' model; it's the secret
million-dollar product that
everyone else is using," Parkes says. And that's just one of
many potential simple building blocks that will open up entire new
industries.
GOING BEYOND THE IWATCH
Most
successful technology and fashion companies have very little in
common. Take Apple. It wins the smartphone market by making one very
beautiful phone that every single person wants. That tactic aligns
with its economies of scale and manufacturing
processes.
Apple spends a lump sum for an injection mold that it uses millions
of times. Customization doesn't fit into that operation.
Fashion,
on the other hand, sells individuality. Sure, Gap makes a lot of
basic white button-down shirts. But not everyone shops at Gap, and
even the people who do shop at Gap don't all buy that one
shirt. Trendy
fast fashion retailers,
like H&M and Forever 21, operate and succeed because of constant
changing variety. Humans don't want to look exactly the same.
In
Parkes's view, tech companies that try to win the entire wearables
market will fail. Apple might dominate the sport-watch category, but
products like Withings
Activité,
a fitness tracker disguised as a high-end Swiss watch, for instance,
will appeal to a different set of people.
Wearables
have also failed to capture a broad audience because of a lack of
obvious utility. Parkes and others in the field say they can't
predict the applications of truly wearable wearables, but it's not
impossible to imagine how advances like the shirt battery could lead
to something more mind blowing than a watch-sized computer.
"I
don't think the point is to have a shirt that you play Angry Birds
on," says Steingart, who has done battery research for nearly 10
years, creating some of the first bendable and stretchable batteries.
While he has given batteries fabric-like qualities, he has never made
one that looks like a piece of cloth, the next step in his research.
Steingart imagines a world in which designers could dye a battery
into their fabrics.
That
would be insanely cool, but what are the applications of something
like that? A shirt has more surface area than a phone, so it can
theoretically have higher capacity to hold a charge. On a basic
level, people could use their clothing as a battery, which would be
convenient. But things start to get really interesting when those
batteries power a connected shirt, like the one Parkes is developing
with Google. A garment that touches many major organs can know more
than a wrist dongle. A smart shirt or scarf or pocket square can also
take advantage of motion control.
"Right
now it’s very much like this," Parkes said, grabbing her
iPhone to mimic the concentration required of a two-handed text
message response. "There's always a kind of removal, it has
nothing to do with your body," she says, before getting
distracted by messages she had missed. "Um, yeah, see," she
said, unable to construct a full sentence while answering her missed
texts.
There
is something appealing about technology that lets us live our digital
and physical lives without one getting in the way of the other.
Devices like Google Glass appeal to that sentiment, but ultimately
fail because even if they don't distract us with vibrating
notifications, they offend our fashion sensibilities. Parkes gets
that. "There is a limitation to the number of hard things you’re
going to wear on your body; it’s basically jewelry," she said.
"But if you have a softer system, like a scarf—there are more
opportunities."
http://www.fastcompany.com/3038355/most-creative-people/the-softer-and-more-wearable-future-of-wearables?utm_source=mailchimp&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=fast-company-daily-manual-newsletter&position=mac&partner=newsletter&campaign_date=12022014
BY
REBECCA
GREENFIELD
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