FOOD SPECIAL............... On the BIRYANI trail

FOOD SPECIAL On the BIRYANI trail   The biryani has a remarkable trait — it integrates beautifully with local flavours. It is robust and spicy in Hyderabad, no-nonsense and meaty in Lucknow, subtle in Kolkata and many-splendoured in Mumbai      After tandoori chicken, biryani is probably the one dish that defines ‘Indian cuisine’ to the rest of the world. Yet no two Indians will agree on the definition of the perfect biryani.     One could add to the confusion by arguing that biryani is not even an Indian dish. Lizzie Collingham, in her book Curry: A Tale of Cooks & Conquerors, points out that the origins of biryani actually lie in the pulaos (pilaffs, polos) of Persia. Biryani was born when the Mughals came to India and their cooks tried to recreate the pulaos they so missed. The influences of the more spicy rice dishes that were current in India then seeped into the delicate pulaos of Persia. The result was a more robust and raunchy dish — the biryani.     The metamorphosis of pulao into biryani has happened at varying times and in varying degrees as a sampling of biryani from across the country shows.     Hyderabad in the South is quite famous for its version, which is probably farthest from the pulao possibly because the city was quite far from the Mughal centres in the North. The Paradise biryani is considered to be the definitive Hyderabadi biryani though many locals feel that the restaurant has traded purity for volumes. Instead of the half-a-century-old Paradise, many now swear by the greater “authenticity” of the biryanis served at Cafe Bahar and Bawarchi.     For the seekers of the truth, a trip to the old city for Cafe Shadab near the Charminar is strongly recommended. This restaurant, which is about a couple of decades old, is considered to be one of the best places to try out a traditional Hyderabadi biryani.     Compared to the biryanis of Lucknow, the biryanis of Hyderabad have a higher proportion of rice than meat. The two are cooked together in the kachhi style. In Lucknow, on the other hand, the meat and rice are cooked separately and then mixed. A true-blue Hyderabadi biryani has clumps of masala which burst through the grains of rice.     The Lucknow biryani is probably closer to the preparation the Mughals favoured given its proximity to the capitals of the dynasty. You will get versions of the Lucknowi biryani in Jamia in Delhi, where it is called Azhamgarhi Pulao. Bhendi Bazaar in Mumbai has a lane with shops dishing out something called ‘Delhi Pulao’ which is similar to the biryanis of Lucknow.     In Lucknow, however, this dish is biryani. Not pulao. The biryani of Lucknow anchors itself on the juiciness of the meat. The rice forms a demure and delicate canvas for the robustness of the meat. These biryanis can be fairly colourful, a throwback to a time when natural food colouring was used to make the grains of rice look like jewels. This was a dish for kings after all.     The famous biryani eateries of Lucknow are small shops. They are a lot humbler than even the no-frills Cafe Bahars and Shadabs of Hyderabad. Two joints that Lucknow biryani purists swear by are Wahid’s at Aminabad and Idris at Patanala Chowk. Both are tiny and their flavourpacked biryani is served on humble stainless-steel plates with some dahi raita on the side.     Lallaji’s at Chaupatiya Chauraha is a hole in the wall in a lane that visitors to Lucknow rarely explore for biryani. Lallaji is the only Hindu biryani maker in Lucknow and he is regarded with reverence by those in the know. His is a oneman operation — the biryani is cooked in the afternoon, the shop opens in the evening and stays open only till stocks last.     The Lucknow biryani story moved on to Kolkata when the British exiled Nawab Wajid Ali Shah there. The epicurean chief’s love for food had to be tempered by reality. The nawab had after all lost his kingdom. So the meat quotient was reduced and the biryani that emerged in the nawab’s new home was less rich in oil and ghee. Then potatoes were added in to make up for the meatlessness. The result was the unique biryani that all Kolkatans swear by. This version is possibly as close as you can get to the original pulao in philosophy because it underplays the use of spices and the flavours are subtle.     There are a number of decade-old restaurants that Kolkatans swear by when it comes to biryani. Shiraz at Park Street is said to serve the most poetic of biryanis in the city. Nizams in New Market has seen a resurgence of late. Legend has it that mutton rolls were invented here. Amina, Aminia, Zeeshan... all have their loyalists. For the younger generation, the decadeold Arsalan at Park Circus is the place to head to. When at a biryani joint in Kolkata don’t forget to order a mutton or chicken rezala and chaap on the side with rotis for that ultimate Kolkata Mughlai experience.     Mumbai’s iconic biryani places such as Jaffer Bhai, Delhi Durbar and Lucky are what most Mumbaikars swear by today. The Irani pulao has gone completely native here with masalas and wet spices making the Mumbai biryani even more Indian. The kachhi (one pot) biryani at Colaba’s Olympia and the Bohri styled biryanis offered by places such as Jeff’s in Bandra are probably closer to the Hyderabadi versions.     The city of Mumbai is a good place to get a comprehensive biryani tour of India without travelling. Kakori House serves the Lucknowi Awadhi biryani, Deluxe Hotel, offers the Keralite version at Fort, Bandra’s Golconda Bowl tosses up a fairly authentic Hyderabadi biryani and Arsalan in Khar and Oshiwara cooks up Kolkatastyled biryanis.     Some biryanis will work for you, some won’t. But then, in a country which can’t decide on a single party to rule the country it would be too much to expect unanimity on more important matters such as the definitive biryani flavour.     So just dig in and feel the love.

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