FASHION
SPECIAL VINDALOO IN VOGUE
In
the past year, Vera Wang, Marchesa, Jean Paul Gaultier, Etro and Chanel have
showcased India-inspired collections. Why has the land of exotica suddenly
become mainstream fashion fodder for the bigwigs.
JEAN Paul Gaultier’s
guests were in for an Indian surprise at his recent Spring/Summer 2013 show in
Paris. The French haute couture fashion designer presented a collection
inspired by India and matched the ambience to the theme, with rows of seating
christened after Indian dishes — tandoori, tikka masala, naan, dal and
vindaloo! Replete with models flaunting bindis, dupattas over their heads and
little girls with maang tikaas, this was the fifth India-inspired show in a
year.
The past year has seen an increasing number of international designers making India their muse It cannot be just a co-incidence that all of them chose Indian motifs, themes and jewellery as inspiration for their collections in the past 13 to 14 months. From a one-off exotic inspiration, India has now become a mainstream muse for fashion stalwarts.
American fashion designer Anna Sui, one of the most celebrated names in Hollywood, says, “The world is becoming smaller. Markets are opening in new parts of the world. Everyone is talking about China and India as the next big global markets. India’s growing economy has made it one of the most important markets. Designers all over the world are taking note of that.” Fashion designer Namrata Joshipura, who often shows in New York and Paris, says, “People are talking about India a lot in mainstream
media and focusing on what’s happening culturally over here. India is showcased not just in couture but also for ready-to-wear lines.”
Jewellery designer Jade Jagger, rocker Mick Jagger’s daughter, says, “Western designers have always been inspired by India. But it’s nice that they are acknowledging it openly now.”
It’s not just creative influences but the economic dynamics of the post-recession world that are driving Indian and Oriental elements (Origami-style silhouettes, Japanese floral prints, Chinese embroidery and dragon motifs, Mandarin collars, etc) into the mainstream. Says fashion designer Ritu Kumar, “The world has always been fascinated by India, from even before the Mughals came here. However, with the current economic climate, it is highly lucrative for international brands to cash in on the Indian flavour. There is money in India now. And the NRI client base is becoming bigger by the day.”
At one end, we have the design bigwigs representing style elements borrowed from the new buyer’s world. At the other end, we have the buyers who get the tag of a huge brand name with design sensibilities that match their own. It’s a winwin situation for all.
Also, as India becomes fashion inspiration, a new style sensibility is emerging. We have the in-demand Western silhouettes that combine elements from the East, making the products appeal to hip, well-travelled global youngsters with deep pockets. Fashion entrepreneur and observer Pernia Qureshi says, “Indian clothes are now being easily interpreted for the modern customer. The inspiration is India, but the silhouette is western, and that is where the magic lies.”
Etro, while taking inspiration from the Mahabharata for their latest menswear collection, were also true to the Italian cuts and silhouettes they are famous for. Vera Wang said of her collection, ‘Out of India’, “India is just the starting point. There is no belly dancing, no sarongs, no saris.” The cuts, like the Nehru jacket one, are straight, smart and “have discipline”.
It’s up to you to be heavily inspired or to take a subtle hint. But whatever you choose this season, you will definitely be carrying a bit of India with you.
The past year has seen an increasing number of international designers making India their muse It cannot be just a co-incidence that all of them chose Indian motifs, themes and jewellery as inspiration for their collections in the past 13 to 14 months. From a one-off exotic inspiration, India has now become a mainstream muse for fashion stalwarts.
American fashion designer Anna Sui, one of the most celebrated names in Hollywood, says, “The world is becoming smaller. Markets are opening in new parts of the world. Everyone is talking about China and India as the next big global markets. India’s growing economy has made it one of the most important markets. Designers all over the world are taking note of that.” Fashion designer Namrata Joshipura, who often shows in New York and Paris, says, “People are talking about India a lot in mainstream
media and focusing on what’s happening culturally over here. India is showcased not just in couture but also for ready-to-wear lines.”
Jewellery designer Jade Jagger, rocker Mick Jagger’s daughter, says, “Western designers have always been inspired by India. But it’s nice that they are acknowledging it openly now.”
It’s not just creative influences but the economic dynamics of the post-recession world that are driving Indian and Oriental elements (Origami-style silhouettes, Japanese floral prints, Chinese embroidery and dragon motifs, Mandarin collars, etc) into the mainstream. Says fashion designer Ritu Kumar, “The world has always been fascinated by India, from even before the Mughals came here. However, with the current economic climate, it is highly lucrative for international brands to cash in on the Indian flavour. There is money in India now. And the NRI client base is becoming bigger by the day.”
At one end, we have the design bigwigs representing style elements borrowed from the new buyer’s world. At the other end, we have the buyers who get the tag of a huge brand name with design sensibilities that match their own. It’s a winwin situation for all.
Also, as India becomes fashion inspiration, a new style sensibility is emerging. We have the in-demand Western silhouettes that combine elements from the East, making the products appeal to hip, well-travelled global youngsters with deep pockets. Fashion entrepreneur and observer Pernia Qureshi says, “Indian clothes are now being easily interpreted for the modern customer. The inspiration is India, but the silhouette is western, and that is where the magic lies.”
Etro, while taking inspiration from the Mahabharata for their latest menswear collection, were also true to the Italian cuts and silhouettes they are famous for. Vera Wang said of her collection, ‘Out of India’, “India is just the starting point. There is no belly dancing, no sarongs, no saris.” The cuts, like the Nehru jacket one, are straight, smart and “have discipline”.
It’s up to you to be heavily inspired or to take a subtle hint. But whatever you choose this season, you will definitely be carrying a bit of India with you.
INDIA ON THEIR MINDS TOO...
*Christian Louboutin designed India-inspired stilettos, naming them ‘Bollywoody’ and ‘Devidas’ I Last year, Louis Vuitton came out with a bag collection inspired by India, and window dressed their stores with the artwork of goddess Lakshmi during Diwali in all of their 454 stores throughout the world. LV also asked Marc Jacobs to design a limited edition sari collection using materials from New Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Madras
* Hermes launched its limited
edition saris, an “extension of the famous Hermes scarf”. The sari silhouette,
which dates back more than 1,000 years, has now been accepted as a ‘must-have’
drape in the fashion world I Indian designer Suneet Varma has been asked to
design a limited edition collection of Judith Leiber clutch
*Gucci has introduced India-exclusive
evening bags
*Pop star Katy Perry was seen in
Manish Arora, Falguni and Shane Peacock dresses. Lady Gaga has worn Arora too.
Britney Spears was seen in Falguni-Shane
*US First Lady Michelle Obama has
worn gowns and dresses by designers of Indian origin, Naeem Khan and Rachel
Roy.
India-inspired collections
Gaultier The 2012 men’s line featured models wearing Sikh-style turbans. At the recent 2013 Spring/Summer show, we saw maang tikaas, bindis and little girls with braids. The seating rows were named after Indian dishes like naan, vindaloo, dal; the French classic, La Vie En Rose was sung in Hindi!
Gaultier The 2012 men’s line featured models wearing Sikh-style turbans. At the recent 2013 Spring/Summer show, we saw maang tikaas, bindis and little girls with braids. The seating rows were named after Indian dishes like naan, vindaloo, dal; the French classic, La Vie En Rose was sung in Hindi!
Chanel Known
for his decadent style and over-thetop theatrics, Karl Lagerfeld transformed
the runway at the Grand Palais in Paris into the days of the British Raj in
India, for his Chanel pre-Fall 2012 show. The much talkedabout collection
called ‘Paris meets Bombay’ had models walk the ramp in tweed jackets with
Nehru collars; metallic evening gowns cut to look like saris; and classic
French silhouettes paired with elaborate traditional Indian jewellery like
nosepins and maang tikaas.
Marchesa The
famous label’s collection at the New York Fashion Week 2013 became a talking
point as the stunning jewellery that models wore was sourced from Jaipur. The
clothes featured Indian draping styles inspired by the sari. The designers,
Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, were inspired by the 1960s, when The Beatles
turned to the Maharishi in Rishikesh for spiritual guidance.
Etro With
the rustle of silks and turbans, the Italian brand’s Spring/Summer 2013 men’s
line was inspired from the epic, Mahabharata.
Vera Wang The American designer’s Spring/Summer 2013 ready-to-wear
collection called ‘Out of India’ featured traditional facets of a typically
Indian wardrobe — Nehru collars, gold embroidery, choli jackets — that she
paired with modern chartreuse brocade and opulent braided lace. The result was
a western feel with a hint of Bollywood.
Garima
Sharma TL130317
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