Everything You Hear About Japan Is...
...not
always true and never entirely false.
In between is a country you have to visit to
believe
ONE WHOLE week in Japan? They only eat sushi! How will you
survive?” “Don’t take cabs! It’s ` 18,000 just from the airport.” “Their
toilets are space-age!” “Have you read Murakami/ Watched Lost In Translation?”
“Catch a geisha performance. Wait. Do they still have geisha?” “Their trains
are so crowded they have officers to stuff people into the compartment so the
doors can close.” “The have weird fashions. Don’t shop.” “But have Burger
King’s black burger!”
In many ways, my trip started long before I boarded my plane.
Those who’d been there, volunteered tips unasked. Those who hadn’t, somehow had
advice to offer too. I suppose I know why. Japan is a country physically and
culturally so removed from the rest of the world, it’s almost a parallel
universe. Japanese trends mushroom, hold the nation in their grip, and
disappear without us knowing (ever heard of bean beards, butt-print skirts or
bagel heads?) Its culture is so complex, a gaijin (an outsider) can get
hopelessly entangled in the clichés. And if you’re a gaijin only for a week,
like me, it’s a place best enjoyed after some homework – even if it means
listening to endless tips.
...ABOUT THAT SUSHI
Chief among these will be about food. If you’re vegetarian
and/or squeamish, how will you manage? Quite well, actually. Tokyo alone has
Indian vegetarian buffets, sophisticated meatless dinners, south Indian and
north Indian meals. We lunched at Indian-owned Chatpata in Osaka, where the
samosas and curries tasted good enough for us to check if home was really one
international and one local flight away. European-style restaurants abound, and
burger chains like the local Mos (famous for buns made with cooked rice) and
Burger King (yes, I had that all-black burger from BuzzFeed) ensure you never
have to look at seaweed or raw fish.
If fish is what
you want, Japan’s your oyster, your salmon, your soft-shelled crab and your
eel. Make a morning pilgrimage to Tsukiji, the world’s biggest fish market, and
take a deep breath for two reasons: a) the variety will boggle the mind, and b)
you can take a deep breath because there’s no fishy smell! I’ve had the
freshest fish of my life – lightly braised mackerel and sliced raw tuna – in
little stalls outside the market .
Of course, they eat more than raw fish. We had buttery,
pan-fried dumplings in Gion, Kyoto, where they were invented, and crunched
through a tempura meal. A building in Hiroshima consisted entirely of eateries
serving okonomiyaki (thick pancake). But sushi is a religion. One Tokyo
supermarket had sushi boxes filling a wall as long as a Metro platform – all of
which sold out in the time it took me to finish homestyle stew and salad next
door. The Japanese will buy sushi from a vending machine. If a Tokyo restaurant
is too tiny for seats, they’ll even eat it standing up. But then, so did I.
...AND BETWEEN MEALS?
You’ll walk off every morsel sightseeing. They’re all sprawled
out in Osaka and Hiroshima. They cover hillsides in Kyoto. Even hyper-cramped
Tokyo finds acres of room for temples. Walk, walk, walk up the 16th century
Osaka Castle to look out over 21st century skyscrapers and manicured gardens.
See if you can walk past the half-charred, half-preserved uniforms of child
victims at the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum without weeping (you can’t).
Walk, eyes-closed, the 20 metres between two Love Stones in Kyoto’s Kiyomizu
temple to have a romantic wish granted. Walk through Gion, Kyoto’s former
geisha district, at night, to see painted ladies bow goodbyes to their clients
ever so elegantly.
But mostly, walk in Tokyo to see how disciplined citizens can
be. They say Singapore has the fastest walkers, but Tokyoites have got to be
the best behaved. At Shibuya – the world’s busiest crossing, where some 16
roads intersect – walk, briskly with thousands as all traffic lights turn red simultaneously
to let people cross. Pedestrians swarm into “coming” and “going” streams as if
guided by an invisible policeman.
What will take your breath away in Tokyo are the trains
themselves. Where NYC’s subways baffle users and where Mumbai’s trains crush
the dignity out of them, Tokyo’s 35 routes cover 13 train lines that go
overground, underground and in a continuous loop. And they all run unfailingly
on time. On the trains – used by everyone from suited CEOs and Hermès-swathed
ladies to punk-rocker teens – no phones ring, no voices chatter. Everyone moves
aside automatically after entering a carriage, making room, unasked. And
officers don’t shove people in anymore. More trains have now been added.
...SO THERE IS SPACE
Not quite. Much of Japan is roomy, but Tokyo is packed tighter
than sticky rice in sushi. I marvelled at the legroom on Japan Airlines (Row 26
is the most spacious); I could do the Tango in my room in Hiroshima. In the
capital, however, a budget double room will have a bed so narrow, you’ll make
babies without meaning to, and pay rates you’d have saved for its education.
Regardless, there’s room to breathe. No one bothers tourists.
Not even if you’re a lone woman on the train at night with drunk men in the
carriage. Locals are insular, but will gladly help if their responses require
simple English. Routes (including train changes) are easy to plot before you
head out. Lunch is cheaper than dinner at most places. They have their own
Disneyland if you’re so inclined, but honestly, the country is a fairground in
itself. And the toilets are really space-age: pre-warmed seats, warm bidets,
pressure controls, music...
Oops! Looks like I have quite a few tips of my own!
TRAVEL INFO
Japan Airlines
operates daily nonstop flights between New Delhi and Tokyo. Air India has
flights as well.
One Japanese Yen
is approximately equal to 52 paise.
Cherry blossom
season in spring and autumn are the best times to visit. Room rates typically
double.
Tokyo is the
most densely packed city on Earth and hotel rates are per person, not per room.
Prepare for cramped rooms if on a budget.
If you’re
travelling across Japan, buy a Japan Rail Pass before you leave India. It lets
you travel across all their rail lines in different cities and might save you
money.
Most signage is
in English. But when using trains in Tokyo, chart out your course before you
set out. Locals aren’t always able to help with complicated directions.
HTBR 8FEB15
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