The Complete Fragrance Guide
Christian Dior had once said: “A woman’s perfume tells more about her than her handwriting.” Why just women, even men qualify.
The most practical way to start describing a perfume is
according to the elements of the fragrance notes of the scent or the “family”
it belongs to, all of which affect the overall impression of a perfume from
first application to the last lingering hint of scent.
First, How It Works
Perfumes have three sets of notes. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and then the base notes gradually appearing at the final stage. While formulating a fragrance, the notes are created keeping the evaporation process of the perfume in mind.
THE TOP OR HEAD NOTES
These are the scents you get when you open a bottle or spray from it. Top notes form a person’s initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume.
THE MIDDLE OR HEART NOTES
These are the scents that emerge just before the top notes dissipate. The middle note compounds form the main body of a perfume and mask the initial impression of base notes.
THE BASE NOTES
The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume and are actually not perceived until 30 minutes after initial application.
Then, What Is It
EAU DE TOILETTE
Eau de toilette is a lightly scented perfume used as a skin freshener. It has high alcohol content and is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving.
AFTER SHAVES
An aftershave is a lotion, gel or balm used mostly by men after they have finished shaving. Most aftershaves contain an antiseptic agent to prevent infections from nicks and cuts.
FRAGRANCES
This is where labels and brand names matter. They are sharp, distinct and long lasting. Applied on the wrists, neck and body.
First, How It Works
Perfumes have three sets of notes. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and then the base notes gradually appearing at the final stage. While formulating a fragrance, the notes are created keeping the evaporation process of the perfume in mind.
THE TOP OR HEAD NOTES
These are the scents you get when you open a bottle or spray from it. Top notes form a person’s initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume.
THE MIDDLE OR HEART NOTES
These are the scents that emerge just before the top notes dissipate. The middle note compounds form the main body of a perfume and mask the initial impression of base notes.
THE BASE NOTES
The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume and are actually not perceived until 30 minutes after initial application.
Then, What Is It
EAU DE TOILETTE
Eau de toilette is a lightly scented perfume used as a skin freshener. It has high alcohol content and is usually applied directly to the skin after bathing or shaving.
AFTER SHAVES
An aftershave is a lotion, gel or balm used mostly by men after they have finished shaving. Most aftershaves contain an antiseptic agent to prevent infections from nicks and cuts.
FRAGRANCES
This is where labels and brand names matter. They are sharp, distinct and long lasting. Applied on the wrists, neck and body.
For Men and Women
While fragrances don’t have a distinct gender, they are divided into masculine and feminine. Generally speaking, masculine fragrances are deeper and stronger, with a hint of citrus, spice, wood and musk.
Feminine fragrances are generally floral, sometimes fruity and occasionally acidic.
Some scents (though not very popular and seldom in use) border on being unisex and can be used by either sex. The Verbena EDT by L’Occitane for instance has a rosy base of geranium and lemon tree with a strong undercurrent of Mediterranean Verbena.
When, Where and How to Buy
While fragrances don’t have a distinct gender, they are divided into masculine and feminine. Generally speaking, masculine fragrances are deeper and stronger, with a hint of citrus, spice, wood and musk.
Feminine fragrances are generally floral, sometimes fruity and occasionally acidic.
Some scents (though not very popular and seldom in use) border on being unisex and can be used by either sex. The Verbena EDT by L’Occitane for instance has a rosy base of geranium and lemon tree with a strong undercurrent of Mediterranean Verbena.
When, Where and How to Buy
Some brands market their products geographically and for
good reason — stronger fragrances do well in Asia while lighter ones do well in
Europe and the US.
This has to do with the climate, buying preferences and lifestyle patterns.
Interestingly, even with the same formulation — fragrances can smell distinctly different on each person. Therefore before you buy a new formulation, its important to test it on yourself.
Do not make impulsive decisions when buying fragrances. It normally takes a couple of minutes, if not longer for the scent to react and activate itself. Most ‘Duty free shoppers’ end up with the wrong bottle because by the time the base notes are evident, they are either strapped on to their seats or almost halfway to their destination.
Always ensure the bottle you are buying is fresh. The more recent the date of manufacture, the safer you are. Heat, humidity, power cuts, storage conditions, mode of transportation and weather extremities can play havoc with the scent, often resulting in a stale and rancid odour that cannot be masked, camouflaged or hidden.
At the risk of annoying shopping portals, I don’t recommend online purchases for fragrances, for the simple reason that you will never be able to test them or know the date of production and expiry (unless of course, it is clearly mentioned). A friend who recently splurged on a popular fashion website was disappointed to receive stock which was just a few weeks from the date of expiry. I had picked up the same make on a trip to Europe and when we compared our purchases not only did his smell different but the colour was evidently lighter and paler as well. Point made and to be noted.
Spray, Splash or Pour
There is no prescribed way to use a perfume, even though many self-proclaimed experts will argue and tell you there is one.
A rule to keep in mind: never let the product come in direct contact with your clothes, jewellery or any other accessory. Besides leaving a stain on fabrics, it can react to spoil the polish of semi-precious and precious stones, metals and even the dials and straps of your watch.
Fragrances are meant for the skin — nothing more and nothing else. Areas where fragrances can be applied are the wrists (but never rub them together) upper hand or forearm, behind the ears, below the neck or by simply walking through a spray mist of the fragrance. To put it simply — spray where it works for you, as long as it’s on the skin.
Mood Lifters
A well-stocked dresser needs to have an assortment of scents and brands. You need a variety to choose from. Always pick the bottle to use based on the occasion, time of day, weather and your mood.
It’s also important for you to regularly change your brand. Very often we get type casted by the fragrance we wear or for that matter, the brand we choose to endorse. Until I discovered the art and educated myself in the science of fragrances, I did not know better either.
Interestingly, even with the same formulation — fragrances can smell distinctly different on each person. Therefore before you buy a new formulation, its important to test it on yourself.
Do not make impulsive decisions when buying fragrances. It normally takes a couple of minutes, if not longer for the scent to react and activate itself. Most ‘Duty free shoppers’ end up with the wrong bottle because by the time the base notes are evident, they are either strapped on to their seats or almost halfway to their destination.
Always ensure the bottle you are buying is fresh. The more recent the date of manufacture, the safer you are. Heat, humidity, power cuts, storage conditions, mode of transportation and weather extremities can play havoc with the scent, often resulting in a stale and rancid odour that cannot be masked, camouflaged or hidden.
At the risk of annoying shopping portals, I don’t recommend online purchases for fragrances, for the simple reason that you will never be able to test them or know the date of production and expiry (unless of course, it is clearly mentioned). A friend who recently splurged on a popular fashion website was disappointed to receive stock which was just a few weeks from the date of expiry. I had picked up the same make on a trip to Europe and when we compared our purchases not only did his smell different but the colour was evidently lighter and paler as well. Point made and to be noted.
Spray, Splash or Pour
There is no prescribed way to use a perfume, even though many self-proclaimed experts will argue and tell you there is one.
A rule to keep in mind: never let the product come in direct contact with your clothes, jewellery or any other accessory. Besides leaving a stain on fabrics, it can react to spoil the polish of semi-precious and precious stones, metals and even the dials and straps of your watch.
Fragrances are meant for the skin — nothing more and nothing else. Areas where fragrances can be applied are the wrists (but never rub them together) upper hand or forearm, behind the ears, below the neck or by simply walking through a spray mist of the fragrance. To put it simply — spray where it works for you, as long as it’s on the skin.
Mood Lifters
A well-stocked dresser needs to have an assortment of scents and brands. You need a variety to choose from. Always pick the bottle to use based on the occasion, time of day, weather and your mood.
It’s also important for you to regularly change your brand. Very often we get type casted by the fragrance we wear or for that matter, the brand we choose to endorse. Until I discovered the art and educated myself in the science of fragrances, I did not know better either.
While growing up, I associated my dad for instance with
Brut, one of my uncles with Old Spice and another with Dunhill. Today you have
a lot more options to choose from.
DAY
A day fragrance is normally mild and has an earthy or spicy undertone. Case in point — Woodspice by Marks & Spencer (with strong wood and spice undertones)
A day fragrance is normally mild and has an earthy or spicy undertone. Case in point — Woodspice by Marks & Spencer (with strong wood and spice undertones)
NIGHT
Scents for the evening are stronger and more long lasting like the powerful Armani Code by Giorgio Armani (a blend of lemon, aniseed, tobacco, leather & wood). Some night fragrances have a sensual edge — fragrances that arouse the senses and have aphrodisiac properties
Scents for the evening are stronger and more long lasting like the powerful Armani Code by Giorgio Armani (a blend of lemon, aniseed, tobacco, leather & wood). Some night fragrances have a sensual edge — fragrances that arouse the senses and have aphrodisiac properties
SPORTY
Sporty fragrances are active and energetic quite like the Allure Sport Eau Extreme by Chanel (a refreshing formulation of Mandarin rind, cypress, clary sage, black pepper, white musk and cedar wood)
Sporty fragrances are active and energetic quite like the Allure Sport Eau Extreme by Chanel (a refreshing formulation of Mandarin rind, cypress, clary sage, black pepper, white musk and cedar wood)
EAST IS EAST
The East is the flavour of the year — quite literally, as more and more brands are making formulations with an exotic old (not third) world accent. Case in point: Nomad by Crabtree & Evelyn (a heady mix of sandalwood, teak, green ginger and bamboo)
The East is the flavour of the year — quite literally, as more and more brands are making formulations with an exotic old (not third) world accent. Case in point: Nomad by Crabtree & Evelyn (a heady mix of sandalwood, teak, green ginger and bamboo)
:: Yatan Ahluwalia
,Image consultant, fashion and grooming expert and Director, Y&E Style
Media SET120610
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