TRAVEL SPECIAL…. Smell the Coffee

TRAVEL SPECIAL…. Smell the Coffee


Glistening rain forests and plantations, teak standing tall on the slopes, hills almost always shrouded in mist — Chikmagalur has an unspoilt charm


You’re being thrown around in the car, your head hits the window at regular intervals, the water you’re trying to drink misses your lips, drenching you completely. Yet, you have a smile plastered on your face. Chikmagalur does that to you with its untamed and utterly green landscape. The roads may leave a lot to be desired, but there are rain forests, glistening paddy fields, plantations of tea and coffee, teak and pepper standing on the slopes, hills almost always shrouded in mist, a carpet of green, placid lakes and the opaque Bhadra River. And all of these virtually untouched, thanks to the locals’ conservation efforts.

A River Runs Through It
Mornings in Chikmagalur are beautiful and full of promise. So wake up early, even if you have to really resist the temptation to snuggle deeper into your blanket. You will be richly rewarded. Pack a picnic and head to Ambutheertha — a little hideaway beyond Horanad Town — where the Bhadra River comes to rest among boulders resembling blocks of cheese, the holes in them are caused by years of weathering from the fierce river that looks deceptively tame at first glance (90 km). Like a lizard on the rock, just lie in the not-yet-scorching morning sun. When you’re all warm and fully awake, head back, stopping at Magundi Village to kayak on the river, with the Bhadra forest on either side of you (27 km from Ambutheertha, 72 km from Chikmagalur).
Afternoons are never stiflingly hot here; rather, they can get a little languorous — blame it on the weather or the huge lunch you had, wolfing down one idiyappam after another. You can either sleep off that lunch or drive through the Muthodi Forest (35 km), listening to the cacophony of birds and insects, or visit one of the many temples — at Horanad, Sringeri, Belur, Halebidu — here. But if you want to avoid the crowds, head to the stunning but little-known Veeranarayana Temple in Belvady, protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (about 30 km).
Set in an idyllic village, it has an aura of peace that religious places often lack. One of the biggest constructions of the Hoysala Empire, the most striking feature of the temple are its soapstone pillars.

Ideal Idol
There are no guides here, but Prashant, the affable priest, will give you a tour, and you will thrill to the pride in his voice when he informs you that the Venugopala (Krishna) idol, one of the three deities in the temple, has been certified by the ASI as the “most beautiful Krishna in India” for its detailed carving. So accurately is the temple designed that on the day of the spring equinox (March 20), sunlight falls directly and dramatically on the Veeranarayana idol.
Evenings in Chikmagalur must be spent in the hills. There are many options for you to see the sunset — Baba Budangiri, Kemmanagundi and Bendgall. Or head to Mullayanagiri (22 km), the tallest peak in Chikmagalur. You could also trek up the “Sarpadhari” (serpentine) route, a fairly steep but popular climb. There’s a temple atop the hill that can be reached by climbing 400-odd steps — the views are breathtaking, to say the least.
Chikmagalur is a place of much unspoilt natural beauty. The locals ensure that it’s not littered with plastic. And once you’ve visited, you, too, will be part of that tribe of protectors.

FACT SHEET
Getting There
Closest Metro: Bangalore (245 km) is five hours away
Closest City: Mangalore (150 km)
Closest Airport: Mangalore Airport (150 km) is closer than Bangalore, but the drive isn’t a pleasant one. Air India, Jet Airways and JetKonnect fly to Mangalore from major Indian cities (return fares from 5,486). Your stay option can arrange transport (from 3,500 one way).
Closest Railhead: Kadur (40 km). Take the 12725 Intercity Express (leaves Bangalore City Jn 1 pm, arrives Kadur 4.15 pm; 284 AC Chair Car), return by 11017 Chalukya Express (leaves Kadur 4.32 pm, arrives Yesvantpur Jn 8.50 pm; 317 3AC, daily except Wed). Your stay option can arrange for a taxi (from 1,500 one way).


GETTING AROUND
Most homestay owners will take you to nearby trekking spots. You’ll need to hire a car for longer excursions.
Where To Stay
Woodway: The homestay is owned by conservationist Shreedev Hulikere and his wife Susmitha (+91-8262-248023/ 300, woodwayhomestay.com; Jakkanahalli Post; 3,000 adult, 1,500 child (5-12 yrs), with all meals, coffee three times a day, a coffee estate tour and a trek to Bendgall, in good weather). Shanthi Kunnj: Its location — on the banks of the Bhadra River — is its biggest USP (+91-824-2485180; shanthikunnj.com; Devdhana Village, Honnekoppa, Sangameshwar Peth, near Kadabagere; Areca Cottage: 2,750 per person; Glass House: 2,950 per person; Log House: 3,950, rates include meals). Thippanahalli Homestay: Built in 1934, this heritage house offers only one room in the house to guests. The other stay options are four cottages in the compound (+91-8262-210730; thippanahalli homestay.com; PO No 160, Thippanahalli Estate; from 4,200 with meals and unlimited coffee.
:: Hardika Panchal ETM121202