Why Rio is the sexiest
holiday destination in the world
Pop quiz: What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you
think of Rio de Janeiro? Do you think of the statue of Jesus Christ standing
with his arms outstretched atop the mountain, blessing all mankind? Or do you
think of Copacabana beach, free-flowing alcohol and a party season that refuses
to end?
My first visit to Rio made me realise that the true sex appeal
of this city lay in neither: what stood out for me instead, was the superior
level of fitness of locals in town. OK… I was then the editor of a fitness
magazine, and it was a subject close to my heart. But as I walked down Ipanema
late that morning surrounded by the perfectly chiselled bodies of women and men
of all ages, I later described it to friends as “the Men’s Health editor’s walk
of shame.” For, everyone playing volleyball, cycling, or running with a partner
on specially-created tracks alongside the beach, years before the Olympics came
to this city, had a far better physique than I did!
There was also a gait that was distinctly Rio: chest out, hips
pushed back, and – irrespective of size – no body consciousness at all. It was
a sex appeal I had encountered nowhere in the world, not even in Sao Paulo. For
those of you who want to suggest Miami’s South Beach, let me clarify that
plastic bodies and worked upon faces wouldn’t stand a chance when pitted
against the confidence of a Carioca!
The sexiest city on earth
Turns out, the sex appeal wasn’t restricted to the physiques. It
was an attitude Rio wore with pride.
I flashed back to the immigration officer who stamped me in.
Arriving on a South African Airways flight from Johannesburg (Brazil is a long
way off), she asked me something in Portuguese, and when I indicated I didn’t
understand, she smiled. Then, she winked. I assumed she spoke no English when
she suddenly returned my documents back to me and said “Have a good holiday!”
And then, once again, she winked!
To sexy seconds
My second trip to Rio happened after the Olympics. Naturally, I
was expecting a renewed city with better infrastructure and organisation.
Unfortunately, just a few days before I landed there I made a Taiwanese friend
in Sao Paulo who told me:
“Are you sure you want to go to Rio? The city’s bankrupt and doesn’t
have money to pay its police officers. The mobs are so powerful, one cop is
killed every day. The government’s soon going to call for President’s rule!”
Always one with a thirst for some real adventure, this
information motivated me to visit even more.
Driving out of the airport, I realised my new friend may have
been right: the terminal looked more dilapidated, as did the areas around.
Instead of tried and tested Ipanema, where I had stayed on my last trip, I was
now stationed in a southern part of Rio called Barra de Tijuca, or the “New
Rio”. I was at the Grand Hyatt which may have been across the road from the
beach (all beaches in Brazil are public, no exceptions!), but was nestled
between the sea and a lagoon, and situated close to a nature reserve. More
importantly, I learnt that Nita Ambani and her party had spent several days at
this hotel during the Olympic Games, and I knew I was at the best address in
town.
Barra offered quieter beaches, which the hotel did not own, but
was happy to service with food and drink. A metro station was about half a
kilometer away, and several Olympic venues and the stunning Museum of Tomorrow
(a must visit especially if you are not a lover of museums) was close by.
I found my way around in an Uber. The drivers, I realised,
wanted a star rating so badly, they were willing to offer me mineral water,
chocolates and cookies, and even some chewing gum in exchange for five. I kept
my top rating reserved for those who avoided routes with traffic and kept their
music down.
Drive by the sea
Driving the freeway into the city first brings you to Leblon,
with holiday homes of the rich and famous, and a golf course that’s the toast
of town. The winding seaside drive then opens up to Ipanema, a series of
beaches oozing fitness, sex appeal and fun. Watching groups of young boys
indulging in capoeira (Is it a dance form, or is it fitness? You decide!) is a
treat in itself.
A small fort divides this stretch of sand from Copacabana beach,
which has been declared “too touristy” by the locals, and is shunned by regular
visitors. Sugar Loaf mountain at the far end is great for views, but is even
better to climb, if you’ve got the appetite for it.
If you’re one for culture, head up the Santa Teresa Hill, in the
old fashion “toy train” that’ll transport you from the crowded centre of town
to an art district with a soul. Galleries, studios and cafés dot the winding
streets. Step aside from the tourist traps and enjoy the spectacular views,
especially that of the tiny city airport with a single runway: a special treat
for any #avgeek like myself.
At the foot of Santa Teresa lies a city that has so much
potential. You’ll feel fairly safe in the subways, but areas like Cinelandia
and the Opera House, both a stone’s throw away from Praca Mahatma Gandhi, with
a beautiful statue of the father of our nation, are all best visited in bright
daylight.
The famous Confeitaria Colombo is worth a visit: I dropped by
there on both my visits to Rio, and got a taste of how Goan blends into
Portuguese, which then becomes Brazilian. The chicken patties, pastries and
potato cakes are all to die for… and, if you’re a Mumbaikar, will come to you
with the sweet smell of a Bandra home.
And of course, there’s Christ!
One hill you will not want to miss going up is the one that
leads you to the statue of Christ The Redeemer.
Holding out his arms, the benevolent-looking Christ seems to
suggest that your holiday of sin and sloth in Rio can also be called a
spiritual experience. Those who’ve been to Lisbon will know that the statue
faces another similar, though smaller one, in the Portuguese capital across
thousands of miles of the Atlantic Sea.
On my first off season and unplanned trip I took a taxi up the
hill and paid for an expensive ride. Unfortunately, the statue was then under
repair, and the Facebook profile pic I used with Christo for several years
after that trip had me smiling, standing in front of the statue covered
scaffolding that had a face of Christ painted on.
On my second trip, I made good the loss. Armed with a sharp
tourist guide, I got photographs from every “best angle” possible. You must
also realise that on my first trip, I carried a squarish digi-cam. This time, I
was in the iPhone age, and selfies, especially with Christ, were now fair game.
A word of caution
A popular activity of tourist interest in Rio is to visit the
many favelas that dot the city. Apparently, they’re “worlds of their own”, each
with their own ganglords, laws and communities. A clean up has apparently taken
place, and tours take you into the heartlands of these areas we in India would
call “slums”.
I was ambivalent. Would this tour be another one glorifying the
simple lives of those who were less privileged? When I decided to go, the
concierge at the Grand Hyatt seemed reticent with his suggestions.
I took the hint at went para-gliding instead. I leapt off a
cliff in Leblon and flew the winds of the South Atlantic to land on one of the
white sand beaches. Exhilarating as the experience was, I was depressed soon
after I had landed.
For, I may have just jumped off a mountain, but I still wasn’t
half as fit as these bloody Cariocas!
JamalShaikh
From
HT Brunch, January 7, 2018
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