More Than Just Skin-Deep
Experts discuss common
mistakes that do your skin a lot more harm than good
As a teenager, acne was Pavithra Balakrishnan’s greatest nemesis.
After spending several sleepless nights agonizing over her acne-prone skin, she
turned to the internet for answers and discovered a whole new world of
innocuousseeming kitchen-based ‘beauty hacks’. “Taking the advice of a
well-known beauty blogger, I crushed a garlic pod and rubbed it on my face. It
stung terribly and left my face red and blotchy. To my great frustration, I
realised garlic was not the answer to my skincare woes and that it was actually
damaging my sensitive skin.”
Since then, the 26-year-old beauty blogger, who is popularly known
on the internet as Makeup Martini, has learned many more beauty lessons and is
much wiser today about following skincare trends than she was as a beauty
neophyte. “Over the years, I’ve tried several hacks that I came across on
Instagram and YouTube. Many of the more popular ones, such as using glue for
blackheads, or cinnamon and wasabi paste for fuller lips are quite ineffective
and actually very painful. It took me a while to understand that good skincare
involves so much more than hacks and fads, and that it is most effective only
when followed as a long-term, scientifically-grounded regimen,” she says.
Echoing Balakrishnan’s woes are millions of Indian men and women,
who must contend with many half-truths and ignorant claims in their quest for
flawless skin. Many of these misconceptions stem from the country’s recent
beauty boom, which anticipates the domestic cosmetics and grooming market to
swell to USD 20 billion (ASSOCHAM, 2016) by 2025 and also the spurt of
internetfamous, self-proclaimed beauty gurus. To separate fact from fiction, we
spoke to skincare experts about the most common skincare mistakes most people
make.
Believing that everything natural is safe
Thick pancake makeup does not allow your
skin to breathe, can cause pores and oil ducts to become blocked — Dr Avani Shah
Indian consumers are far more partial to herbal and ‘natural’
cosmetic products. A recent Euromonitor report found that packaging that
contained words such as words such as ‘natural’, ‘organic’, ‘botanical’, ‘free
from’ some harsh chemical and even ‘religious compliance’ play a major role in
influencing buying decisions. The report also finds that more than 50 percent
of Indian consumers will buy a skincare product that has ‘natural or organic’
features. Many of these claims can be misleading since these words have no
official or legal meaning when it comes to labelling cosmetics. What most
consumers also do not realise is that plant-based substances are also technically
chemicals and that they can also react with your skin in similar ways that
synthetic substances can.
Aesthetician and dermatologist Dr Bharti Magoo explains, “People
must understand that organic substances contain acids and that they are not
suitable for all skin types. Even using neem paste or clove oil, which have
astringent properties, on pimples can damage your skin – while certain pimple
may dry out, others caused by hormonal imbalances will get further aggravated.
If you suffer from breakouts very regularly and your pimples are filled with
pus, seek medical attention. For nonhormone-related acne, home remedies may
help to a certain extent. However, make sure to test the pack out on a small
section of skin to make sure you don’t suffer from any allergies. You could
also try using a sandalwood or fuller’s earth (multani mitti)-based pack to
which a single mint leaf has been crushed and added.”
Using packs and masks too often and for too
long
“Even the most effective pack will dry out your skin and can cause
breakouts if left for too long,” says Dr Magoo. She recommends not distracting
yourself by getting on the phone when using packs and making sure to wash off
the pack after seven minutes. Korean beauty trends, which have been making
waves in beauty circles for a while now, also promote the use of sheet masks,
which skincare lovers have eagerly lapped up. “Sheet masks create an ‘occlusive
barrier’ that physically seals in active serums. Theoretically, this helps the
product work more effectively, but it can also be quite harmful to your skin if
used too often,” says dermatologist Dr Soma Sarkar.
High quality sheet masks can be expensive while cheaper masks can
contain skin-irritating fragrances and lower-quality oils. Occlusion creates a
temperature spike near your face and this can be problematic for acne-prone
skin. Increasing temperature can also increase the acne-causing bacteria count
on the surface of the skin. It is preferable, therefore, to test the mask on
the side of your cheek overnight and check for new blemishes the next day,
before proceeding with a full mask. Also, these masks are better suited for
hydration than for exfoliation or other processes, and should be used
accordingly. Dr Sarkar also advises using these masks no more than once a week.
Being careless with makeup
Although many mothers have waggled cautionary fingers about makeup
causing acne and break outs, using makeup doesn’t necessarily damage your skin
— provided you do it right. “Makeup can create a barrier against atmospheric
pollution and your skin. Certain products such as BB and CC creams include
moisturisers and sunblock, and can keep your skin healthy. However, thick,
pancake makeup does not allow your skin to breathe, can cause pores and oil
ducts to become blocked, causing comedogenic acne,” says cosmetic dermatologist
Dr Avani Shah. “For individuals with oily skin, buying oil-free makeup with a
light texture is very important. Regardless of what makeup you use, make sure
to take it all off before bedtime,” adds Dr Magoo.
Sharing makeup and brushes is another strict no-no as far as good
skincare is concerned. “Sharing brushes and makeup (especially eye and lip
makeup) can transmit bacterial infections and herpes,” cautions Dr Shah. She
also emphasises on the need to replace makeup within its expiry date. “All
makeup includes a combination of pigments, preservatives, and stabilizers or
emulsifiers, which are all chemicals. When a chemical that has been used in a
particular combination goes past its expiry date, especially in a tropical
climate like India, it can aggravate and inflame the skin causing allergic
reactions, contact dermatitis and pimples. Using liquid makeup beyond its
expiry date is asking for trouble. Tablets, on the other hand, can be stretched
for a month.”
Keeping your makeup brushes clean is another point that every
dermatologist highlights. Dermatologist Dr Batul Patel explains, “Unclean
makeup brushes are a breeding ground for bacteria, which can lead to acne.
Makeup brushes also should be cleaned frequently, preferably once a week or a fortnight.
Wash your brushes with antibacterial soap and dry them thoroughly. To avoid
dust settling on the brushes, they should be kept in a clean, closed pouch.”
Beauty blogger Ranita Sheetal, who runs the popular Infinity Times
Infinity blog, adds, “Another typical mistake people make is storing their
makeup in the bathroom – the humidity destroys the product and increases
microbial infestations, making your products unhygienic and unsafe for your
skin. This can lead to continuous breakouts.”
Using too many products
“What most people ignore is that the skin is a secretory organ and
is the body’s third-most important detoxifying organ. Using too many products
can impair this basic function, giving rise to acne and clogged pores,” says Dr
Shah. “Also, many of the products available today are not US FDA-approved. In
order to gain these approvals, manufacturers must abide by stringent scientific
standards and the product must consistently, scientifically reproduce its
claimed effect. This is not true for a lot of creams available in the market.
As a result, very few people are satisfied with the products they use, and
continue to buy more products. It is a vicious cycle. The only foolproof
solution for clear skin is a simple routine that is backed by good nutrition,
adequate consumption of water and regular exercise,” she says.
At the same time, Dr Sarkar advises paying attention to the
sequence in which you use products to ensure that your skin receives the
intended benefit. She advises using a light serum such as Vitamin C, retinol or
hydraulic acid at night, followed by a water-based moisturiser. In case of very
dry skin, you can also follow this with a leave-in mask. For the daytime, she
recommends using sunscreen with inbuilt moisturizers for oily skin, and moisturiser
followed by sunscreen for dry skin.
Blogger Shrima Rai adds, “Now that I am in my thirties, I have
realised the importance of using different creams as per the time of the year.
For instance, I have understood that what works during summer months may be
completely unsuitable during winter, and this is something that not too many
people pay attention to. I also highly recommend understanding your skin before
you experiment, and consulting a dermatologist if necessary to make sure you
know what your skin needs.”
Anindita Paul
MM 22NOV17
No comments:
Post a Comment